Your cam keeps loosing sync.
Attached startup for the 60s. Hopefully she's more consistent. She won't be happy til she drops in to closed loop and corrects. I'm sure the fueling will be out quite a bit at idle now.
In any case keep her running and shoot back a full step 1 log. If she does decent then include a wot pull from 3k rpm to 4k or until the fueling goes goofy.
Lots of changes and same problems hahah
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decipha
- Posts: 6953
- Joined: 2021 Feb 15, 12:23
- Location: Metairie, LA
- Vehicle Information: Work Truck
'25 F-150 5L
Re: Lots of changes and same problems hahah
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BKB
- Posts: 27
- Joined: 2026 May 15, 16:23
- Location: PA
- Vehicle Information: 1994 mustang with a 1994 Thunderbird 3.8 SC motor and Camaro Tremac TR6060 trans. CZAWO with siemens 60s, 90mm tb and slot maf, long tubes and Mac pro-chamber. 15psi 12%OD
400rwhp 450tq
wbo2_innov LC1 (non functional at CT)
Re: Lots of changes and same problems hahah
Sync - I see that, will check to see I its in the middle of the window again.
Pretty enjoyable drive. I can get the copilot out For a WOT pull.
Pretty enjoyable drive. I can get the copilot out For a WOT pull.
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decipha
- Posts: 6953
- Joined: 2021 Feb 15, 12:23
- Location: Metairie, LA
- Vehicle Information: Work Truck
'25 F-150 5L
Re: Lots of changes and same problems hahah
Clear the kams by disconnecting the battery and holding the terminals together for a minute.
Load this in and shoot me back another step 1 log. If all goes well include a wot pull in there.
Load this in and shoot me back another step 1 log. If all goes well include a wot pull in there.
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BKB
- Posts: 27
- Joined: 2026 May 15, 16:23
- Location: PA
- Vehicle Information: 1994 mustang with a 1994 Thunderbird 3.8 SC motor and Camaro Tremac TR6060 trans. CZAWO with siemens 60s, 90mm tb and slot maf, long tubes and Mac pro-chamber. 15psi 12%OD
400rwhp 450tq
wbo2_innov LC1 (non functional at CT)
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decipha
- Posts: 6953
- Joined: 2021 Feb 15, 12:23
- Location: Metairie, LA
- Vehicle Information: Work Truck
'25 F-150 5L
Re: Lots of changes and same problems hahah
Excellent she looks perfect. I kicked up dashpot, may be too much but should stop it from dropping so hard. You'll probably want to reduce it a tad.
In any case she looks perfect no more logs needed. You will need to disconnect the battery and hold the terminals together for a minute to clear the kams. Shouldn't need to do it again after this.
Enjoy
btw, just posted a new czaw0 xdf
In any case she looks perfect no more logs needed. You will need to disconnect the battery and hold the terminals together for a minute to clear the kams. Shouldn't need to do it again after this.
Enjoy
btw, just posted a new czaw0 xdf
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BKB
- Posts: 27
- Joined: 2026 May 15, 16:23
- Location: PA
- Vehicle Information: 1994 mustang with a 1994 Thunderbird 3.8 SC motor and Camaro Tremac TR6060 trans. CZAWO with siemens 60s, 90mm tb and slot maf, long tubes and Mac pro-chamber. 15psi 12%OD
400rwhp 450tq
wbo2_innov LC1 (non functional at CT)
Re: Lots of changes and same problems hahah
I did not use the new CZAWO let me get that on and see if it reacts differently. Also has sync issues at higher RPMs. I see depending how you adjust it effects the RPM it works best in. Im ordering a NTK cam sensor since my stock of low millage OEM sensors are all dead and I do not know the quality of tis wells unit.
I am still struggling with tunerpro for sure but I had a few things happen this run that did not last tune.
It seems when it went into closed loop I had some weird HEGO issues at steady throttle but car had a light buck. I could see the fuel error go red a few times.
Maybe a OL timer or something but first time I hit boost it never went into open loop. Latter in the drive it responded the way I would expect it.
Lean POP / Backfire is significantly worse. If I lived in the hood people would be jumping for cover.
I am still struggling with tunerpro for sure but I had a few things happen this run that did not last tune.
It seems when it went into closed loop I had some weird HEGO issues at steady throttle but car had a light buck. I could see the fuel error go red a few times.
Maybe a OL timer or something but first time I hit boost it never went into open loop. Latter in the drive it responded the way I would expect it.
Lean POP / Backfire is significantly worse. If I lived in the hood people would be jumping for cover.
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BKB
- Posts: 27
- Joined: 2026 May 15, 16:23
- Location: PA
- Vehicle Information: 1994 mustang with a 1994 Thunderbird 3.8 SC motor and Camaro Tremac TR6060 trans. CZAWO with siemens 60s, 90mm tb and slot maf, long tubes and Mac pro-chamber. 15psi 12%OD
400rwhp 450tq
wbo2_innov LC1 (non functional at CT)
Re: Lots of changes and same problems hahah
OK, that's seems much better definitely something I can work with. Thanks for everything.
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decipha
- Posts: 6953
- Joined: 2021 Feb 15, 12:23
- Location: Metairie, LA
- Vehicle Information: Work Truck
'25 F-150 5L
Re: Lots of changes and same problems hahah
she looks perfect
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BKB
- Posts: 27
- Joined: 2026 May 15, 16:23
- Location: PA
- Vehicle Information: 1994 mustang with a 1994 Thunderbird 3.8 SC motor and Camaro Tremac TR6060 trans. CZAWO with siemens 60s, 90mm tb and slot maf, long tubes and Mac pro-chamber. 15psi 12%OD
400rwhp 450tq
wbo2_innov LC1 (non functional at CT)
Re: Lots of changes and same problems hahah
Update
I changed the Autolight 103s since they had a very short but rough life, bad tuning and fat fingering caused flooding many times. I also was getting what felt like a misfire at random times when not in boost. New plugs gapped tighter from .035 to .030 and tuning HLDTM1 from 2 seconds to 0 and changing FN320A eliminated this misfire feeling and lack of power in boost on a cold engine.
The throttle still had a light switch effect since timing would drop so low at closed throttle and shock the whole driveline when you would touch the gas peddle. I pulled the 8.8 rear and installed a solid crush sleeve and set it up on the tight side to help stop the ringing of the aluminum driveshaft. I have a torque arm and very stiff bushings so maybe my car is worse then others. I did add a few degrees of timing below 2k on my spark sea level and altitude table and this significantly softened the transition.
Idle dips and car will stall if turning at the same time. I have tried dashpot adjustments and they do not respond the way I'm used to. Maybe I need to make more drastic changes but in general I can't tell the difference. Pretty sure I used to adjust a min dashpot to help keep RPM high till you got DASMPH, I do not see DASMIN, what should I be adjusting?
( had some time to play with this and FN894 is helping. Almost had to double the lower #s to reduce the dip, so the changes I made before were way too small and had no effect. Getting to the point of causing cruise control so next hot day will need to see if it's ok with AC on. )
Tunerpro - I do not know how to view a datalog. I sit here and watch the playback on the dash and right things down and its very time consuming. I have watched videos and read some beginners guides and feel like an absolute idiot. What do you use the view the XDL file? Or am I missing something on tunerpro?
Car runs better then it ever has and I'm waiting for a few local Dynos to call back to get a base line. I would say all the welding and porting I did on the lower manifold helped a lot. The plugs I removed looked the same in every cylinder, before the front plugs would be white, middle brown and back ones black. Family enjoys going for drives now.
I changed the Autolight 103s since they had a very short but rough life, bad tuning and fat fingering caused flooding many times. I also was getting what felt like a misfire at random times when not in boost. New plugs gapped tighter from .035 to .030 and tuning HLDTM1 from 2 seconds to 0 and changing FN320A eliminated this misfire feeling and lack of power in boost on a cold engine.
The throttle still had a light switch effect since timing would drop so low at closed throttle and shock the whole driveline when you would touch the gas peddle. I pulled the 8.8 rear and installed a solid crush sleeve and set it up on the tight side to help stop the ringing of the aluminum driveshaft. I have a torque arm and very stiff bushings so maybe my car is worse then others. I did add a few degrees of timing below 2k on my spark sea level and altitude table and this significantly softened the transition.
Idle dips and car will stall if turning at the same time. I have tried dashpot adjustments and they do not respond the way I'm used to. Maybe I need to make more drastic changes but in general I can't tell the difference. Pretty sure I used to adjust a min dashpot to help keep RPM high till you got DASMPH, I do not see DASMIN, what should I be adjusting?
( had some time to play with this and FN894 is helping. Almost had to double the lower #s to reduce the dip, so the changes I made before were way too small and had no effect. Getting to the point of causing cruise control so next hot day will need to see if it's ok with AC on. )
Tunerpro - I do not know how to view a datalog. I sit here and watch the playback on the dash and right things down and its very time consuming. I have watched videos and read some beginners guides and feel like an absolute idiot. What do you use the view the XDL file? Or am I missing something on tunerpro?
Car runs better then it ever has and I'm waiting for a few local Dynos to call back to get a base line. I would say all the welding and porting I did on the lower manifold helped a lot. The plugs I removed looked the same in every cylinder, before the front plugs would be white, middle brown and back ones black. Family enjoys going for drives now.