Lots of changes and same problems hahah

[decipha]

The cam should cross at 26 degrees crank. I think its 2 or 3 teeth past the missing tooth ottomh but you'd have to look up the specifics to verify.

The original 3.8 injectors would be fine. You can clean them yourself just energize them to open it and spray it from the back side with 120 psi of compressed air. No need in sending them to someone else to do it.

[BKB]

I have sync. I skipped a tooth at a time all the way around while spinning the cam sensor and nothing. I ordered some new parts along with 2 new cam sensors and started all over again. I notice sync turned white I found the middle and bolted it down. swapped the OEM sensor on and no sync, in the trash it went. looks like its rising and not on falling, need to look into that but pretty sure you can't get sync 180' out.

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Maybe this will help someone. First the window is so small for the eec to sync I don't see how any 3.8 still running at this point is in sync.

Here we are #1 compression stroke 26' atdc on my early BHJ dampener that never had this mark. I used my OEM dampener keyed them together and made this mark.

Here is where the cam sensor wants to be to sync. Its close but if you get it to the point the tool fits its no where close to being in sync.

So next I spun the crank around until the cam tool fit and I wanted to know where the crank pointer is. Its closer to TDC then it is to 26' atdc but still would never synce if you installed it at TDC.

And here is my scope when in sync

[decipha]

Very nice, Its been a while since I've done it but i don't think its supposed to be at tdc. iirc you go to 26 degrees, make sure it was on intake? and put the invert U in the middle of the window. There was a write up for it on sccoa. I've never used the tool before never found a need for it. I always verified and I've never had one not sync.

That's only half the battle though the injectors still seem to be acting up. Should make it more responsive though.

I'm curious to find out when you do swap them.

[BKB]

I have a fuel injector cleaner machine and ran these 80 many times before I installed them. Nothing stood out in any way. I did have 1 that was a little lower on flow but once I found out you can't get real siemens injectors anymore I just installed it in the lowest flow port. So I have 5 within 1% and one that was around 5% low at high MS. I probably have over and hour of test time and another hour in a heated ultrasonic cleaner trying to get that 1 injector to clean up but it never did. I have a few days before Carlisle and have a car that barley runs so I will not be swapping injectors any time soon, need to start testing my back up tunes.

I will say my plugs look better now then they have in probably 15 years. I just tested the ACT and ECT both read 64' and that's the temp of the barn.

As for sync I see why Ford sent out the TSB saying you need to use WDS to set cam sensor and not the tool.

[decipha]

Poweraddersolutions still has some real siemens 60s if those will work for you.

If you have even a slight variance with a flow checker then you definitely have bad injectors.

Also for greater knowledge, flow testing a siemens injector is rather useless since it tells you nothing about the injector characteristics. The only way to verify a genuine production line siemens from the genuine non production siemens (CCP defraud debacle) is measuring lag times. Usually you need a high speed camera to see the actual lag times. With 40psi rail you alternate from 2ms to 8ms then 20ms and verify the on and off times are consistent. The off lag is almost more important than the on for injector characteristics as thats the primary difference between the actual siemens assembly line assembled and and the CCP genuine off the line assembled.

Siemens has strict qc standards. Ive never seen them vary at all. I dont know how china managed to screw up the lag time using all the same albeit stolen parts but thats what happened.

Siemens hasnt come out and said it but I believe thats the primary reason why they discontinued them, their rep was ruined for something thats not theirs. Its shitty how china can ruin a perfect thing.

[BKB]

Well I thought I had 2 decent tunes but they are pretty rough. The last one you sent is probably the best all around one I have. I need to learn how to better view or set up the datalogging in tunerpro. Not having that muscle memory as to where everything is makes it difficult to drive and view. Just in general I'm felling quite dumb. If you could help I would apricate it.

Idle - at 4 degrees it seemed to struggle and in general sounds pretty bad, I would assume this is to give it reserve torque. Also since sync I now have stalling at stops and idle rpm undershoots.

0 vac- 0 boost - this transition into boost still seems really weird. Sometimes it seems to work just fine and other times it seems to have a delay before it will fuel. Also just looking at the WB it seems to get lean again almost like its timed. Seems more then just fn337. It makes me not want to go WOT because it seems to start off around 11.3 then I will see a blip of 13 and power reflects it.

Driveline clunk - It seems to go right into DFSO. I don't really care at this point, its not that bad.

Idle and WOT if that can get a little better I'm good to go.

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[BKB]

I wanted to replace that one injector to better flow match but that’s when I realized the market was flooded with knock offs. I felt the Bosch EV14s had a much better spray pattern then the pencil style the Siemens have. Any issue with the LS style Bosch EV14? I would solder the correct connector onto the wiring harness instead of buying the modified body injectors. Any recommendations for vendor?

[decipha]

Your best bet is the 60s from PAS. Use discount code DECIPHA.

[BKB]

Thanks for the deal, injectors ordered.

[BKB]

car made it to Carlisle on a last minute tune, bailed today to get these 60s in.

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