EFIDynoTuning Forum

I don’t have a data log recording at hand, however I believe I caught some spark retard under higher Load values/ under boost.

On the one hand, if the knock sensor is doing its job then great: just back off the spark advance.

On the other hand, I wonder if it could be false knock being detected.

Is this time to hit the rolls?

Is there a way to validate the knock sensors calibration?

How could one adjust the knock sensor calibration?

Thanks

Not immediately, likely summer

I’m perfectly fine with supporting as a premium member also

I just wanted to post a correction to my previous comment. Manifold Volume had to be reduced as was suggested. “Don’t be afraid to make big changes” is a very good philosophy in this case! Thank you

I am just wondering what the status is on support for this OS. Has a custom strategy with definition file and data-logging been developed?

I’m curious as I want to start working with my truck which is stockish currently…

I am wondering how to bump idle effectively… I can change Neutral Base and Drive Base values but it seems like idle spark or something else needs a tweak. Can Someone please tell me how to do this properly? Thanks

I am running into the rev limiter because the shift doesn’t happen correctly. I don’t seem to be making any progress by changing the tv table. Can somebody confirm what table I should be adjusting by calling it out as in TunerPro please? Also, thinking of doing j-mod as well. Please assist, thank you

So I have a Positive Displacement Blower in place on top of the 4V 4.6. I removed the egr module during the swap and when doing so decided I should splice into the 03 cobra map sensor to the egr baro input circuits. I need some clarification.

Does the egr baro input get used in functions for fueling and engine control?

If not, is there a way to prevent a baro fault code with that equipment being missing temporarily during my engine calibration adjustments?

Update: Engine isn’t hurt. I put in a new set of pistons to bump the compression a touch and polished the chambers. Engine runs great!

A little. I believe the gen 1 f150 modular oil pump gears are direct replacement for 3v oil pump housing and eliminate the need to modify the flats of the crank snout (cool). So you would need 2 factory pumps (3valve and early f150 5.0) and then put the gears of the early 5 liter f150 into the 3v pump housing. Aftermarket gear options are limited I believe as they seem to just all use later coyote pump housings and gears. However, I believe the next problem is the thrust bearing needing to be spaced excessively to fit a 4.6 and this problem maybe the reason to avoid the coyote crankshaft. I haven’t been able to validate this yet and may not attempt either.

It wasn’t my tune or my parts selection that was my issue which is great! Stock stroke 4valve with low compression pistons (heavy) and (heavy h beam rods). It was nice to see all the pistons looked great as well as their respective bores. Minor scuffs that couldn’t be felt from the 2618 slugs was all I could find. The blower and the rest of the cylinders had 0% related damage!

Foreign debris (wiper cowel spring clip) was the cause. It dropped into cylinder 8 intake port during a timing cover reseal. (I heard something drop and looked at the intake ports but apparently I failed to detect the intrusion. What a nightmare!) The engine runs fine and has good compression just found related damage to piston crown and chamber on 8.

I disassembled looking for a failure during my analysis and Cylinder 8 wasn’t hurt in the block but I plan to replace the slug and do some chamber refinishing and polishing globally…

I have a few questions for you folks wanting to help…

1. I decided to run heavy h-beams and heavy pistons to take abuse with a stock stroke crank at low compression because I want to tune for up 20 psi boost with a PD blower and keep the rpm’s under 6k. Would I be better off over boring the block and using a stroker crank (machined 3rd gen coyote), with 5.2 predator rods and a custom piston?

2.Would it be better to bump static compression to 9.5?

3.I have been informed that improved exhaust valves, seats and a spring package is a need for FI engine. Should I replace all the guides, use stainless exhaust valves, install new exhaust seats and find a better spring package? If so, I would like to hear pointers…

I may try a coyote crank (machined for 4.6 snout), GT 500 rods and a custom piston for the shortblock…

I do want to improve my cylinder heads regardless of short block repair/rebuild.

Lay those thoughts//answers on me if you have them please

Thanks Everyone!

-Mike