1997 Mountaineer 5.0 for Coil-near-plug swap

[BOOSTEDEVERYTHING]

What is your first name?

Paul

I wonder if putting some anti-seize on the brass sensor threads where it is screwed in to the cast iron head would be ok?

I wouldn't think that would hurt it.

The washers may not make a difference either, but I do know different metals handle heat differently.

[ATPCR]

Thanks Paul, Greg here. I've been delaying installing the over $9- each "Godzilla" coil connectors from Ballenger Motorsports. I knew by looking at them that the connectors are a type that I've never worked with before. dleach1407 and RinerAuto have used these and helped me with the supplier. I have a pair of one step crimp pliers. They are the type that one would use for simple speaker wire connectors. In the morning, Ballenger should answer me back on what the connector is called and the type of pliers to purchase. In the meantime, I may have figured it out. Weatherpack connectors and weatherpack crimp pliers. I think that I got this correct. This is a two-step crimp. Crimp the wire first, then change slot on pliers, crimp the rubber seal. Maybe dleach will chime in.
https://www.vehicleservicepros.com/serv ... cht-sensor
https://www.amazon.com/Crimping-knoweas ... L4RFQ&th=1

[mechanicalmatch]

Might I make a tool recommendation. I use a ratcheting style set of crimpers with replaceable jaws. Bought them well over 20 yrs ago. I do driveability and electrical in a dealership. I always get extra terminals and seals. Wire insulation / strands, terminal manufacturer (multiple manufactures for one type of terminal sometimes), the way you hold your tongue, all has an affect on how well they come out. Having good wire tools just makes the job enjoyable.

Talking about connectors and terminals, i use mouser for my electronic components. You can find data sheets and links to manufactured websites to get more info such as how to service/disassemble connector , tools , etc...
Here is a link to something similar to the connector Ford uses as an example.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mo ... JPSA%3D%3D

[ATPCR]

Thanks mechanicalmatch. I'll check out Mouser later when it isn't so late. I already possess the Ballenger coil connectors and was close to getting ready to install them when I realized that the one step crimpers weren't anywhere near what I needed to crimp these particular connectors. I work on very few late model vehicles, if you call late 90's, late model. I try to stay in the 1965 to 1968 range. 1997 is late model to me lol.
I have a good set of strippers to get the 3/16" exposed wire like I need to, and the wire is some original, in good shape and some harvested from another Ford harness that had been well protected. I know the crimpers pictured are very much a budget pair probably from China, but if I can get 16 metal connectors crimped, very carefully, and the 16 rubber weather boots crimped in place, I will be happy. This is a one-off project, so I just hope the cheap pliers are worth the fact that they exist. I'll be on a table doing this as to take away the "trying to do it under the hood" factor. I can focus on my tongue better that way. The quality of my connectors better be better than the tools because they were $9- each x 8 before shipping.
Thanks for your input and link. Below is the Ballenger "Godzilla" coil connector link.
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/produ ... l5u918efd5

[mechanicalmatch]

That isn't a terrible deal for not having to research anything. Thanks for the link.

Here is one of the crimpers I use with the weatherpack jaws in them.

[BOOSTEDEVERYTHING]

Nice to meet you Greg. I would think that those crimpers may work fine. I used to use a cheaper pair like those but went to ratcheting type a long time ago. The cheap ones did the job but make sure you get a good tight crimp on the wire. It wouldn't hurt to put a dab of solder on the wire crimp before crimping the boot either. Thats what I usually do on sensitive connections. The crimp solders fairly easily but do it before you crimp the boot to the insulated part of the wire to keep from burning it. And only use a little solder to help the connection, you don't want too much to wick up into the wire itself. I find that liquid flux helps a lot with small connections like these.

[ATPCR]

I appreciate you guys help. I received the weatherpack (weather pack?) pliers late Friday. I'm definitely not used to crimping something that small. I messed up a few connectors during the crimping process. Good lighting and a lot of patience is important. Twice as many metal pins come with the Ballenger connectors. Good thing. I was unable to put a dot of solder on the spot of the connector because it would melt the weather seal that had to be in place even before the first crimp. I'm finishing up electrical connections on the engine to be able to put it the rest of the way back together.

I would like to see some of you other guys' projects.
The garage and build threads category is good place for such.

[ATPCR]

I have the wb O2 sensor screwed into to the sensor bung and the harness coming up through the tunnel just at the console location. I'm attempting to pick apart directions that were written in chinese and translated to english. The O2 sensor and gauge are a cheap import set.

New message from me to original seller:
About a year ago, I purchased an AFR gauge from you. The installation instructions aren't very clear. There is a little wiring connector that has different colors than the O2 sensor wires which are back, gray, white and little pigtail has red, yellow, white and black. If I can't hook it up properly, then it is useless. Can you help me?

autoparts-mh:
hi dear friend
O2 sensor instructions
The white line is at heater ab
Black line signal line C, gray line signal ground D
The green wire of the instrument is connected with the black wire of the sensor. The gray line is connected to the negative pole of the battery.
One white wire connect with the car shell or battery negative pole.
Another white wire connect to the ACC line of ignition switch
The white line is the heater and does not distinguish between positive and negative electrodes
About the air fuel gauge, please see the installation instructions.

ME: Your previous message
There are no green wires at all having to do with the gauge or O2 sensor. I have attempted to pic apart the AFR gauge connections from the universal directions. I have a yellow wire up top that could be what the green wire is supposed to be. It would be nice if there were directions just for this gauge and O2 sensor on one piece of paper where it would all make sense.
Have you personally used this gauge and O2 sensor combo? Thanks for the help!

autoparts-mh:
Hi dear friend
Thanks for your message
If there is no green wire, you can connect the red wire
If you have any question,please feel free to contact us,we will try to our best serve to you,
Have a nice day
Regards
Anna
Reply
Make an offer

Well, the directions are still not clear. Below is a picture of the O2 sensor pin out and a picture of the gauge with a yellow wire up top. This may be "signal in". The lower pigtail on the gauge has 4 wires. Red power+ Black power- White ign+ Yellow illumination+.

[ATPCR]

I'm moving forward with mechanicals on this project as well as the add on electrical stuff, AFR gauge/WB O2 sensor. I have a loose orange wire, the old EGR valve wire coming out of the connector to use in the future for the RT segment of all of this.
I'm temporarily bypassing the AC on this vehicle. I needed a 840K6 belt. Brother had in his stuff a 6K832 that is temporarily on while waiting for the 84" belt.

The EGR valve has been deleted. This is an old 5.0 internal EGR system. I elected to plug off the flow where the gasses would be next to the delrin
plastic 1 " spacer.

I used a brass Allen head 12" pipe plug in the hole. I have read plenty of back and forth about deleting or not.

The upper intake, gaskets and spacer had to be sandwiched together to install properly. A one inch spacer is about the max on these Explorer bodies.

Upper plenum back on.

[BOOSTEDEVERYTHING]

Unfortunately that is not a wideband sensor. It is a narrowband just like the factory sensors are and won't tell you much. You are better off abandoning that one and getting a wideband setup from a reputable company. Not really something to cheap out on anyways. I stay away from PLX and Autometer as I have had more than a couple issues with the wideband gauges from them. Innovate makes a nice one that seems pretty accurate and I have had good luck out of the gauges. I love autometer gauges but I have had 2 of the wideband gauges fail just outside of warranty and they wouldn't do anything for me other than sell me another gauge so I buy everything except the wideband gauges from them. I am sure there are a few other companies out there that are good for them as well.

I was unable to put a dot of solder on the spot of the connector because it would melt the weather seal that had to be in place even before the first crimp.

My recommendation here is to slide the seal back and crimp the wire part first, then solder, then slide it back into place and crimp that portion of the pin. It has always worked well for me. Also you do not need much solder for this, just a dab to get a good connection. But if you have a good crimp it isn't necessary anyways.