I'll do the tables after I retune now I've finally relocated my IAT and built a new intake :D
Question:
Can I use the Motorcraft IAT/MAF 6 wire all-in-one combo sensor say from an 04-09 F150 4.6L Ford Part# YC2F-BA AFLS161 (I believe I don't care about the part # so much either) for the A9L2 magic code? I gather I can since the voltage as I understand is the same but there's so much mis-information about the "MAF calibration", ECM specific Part #s for MAFs (which appear to NOT be true), etc. so I just wanna make sure from your/ya'lls view ;)
I know what I need from the wiring/harness/pinout perspective but beyond that, the voltage is really all that matters (I believe) so I should be good right?
Intake Build Info:
As for the new intake, it's 102mm (4"~) I.D. intercooler pipe with the MAF and ACT sensor mounts I designed and 3d printed. ACT is about 10-20* over ambient now (AZ summer time, so ambient is about 100-110*) and very consistent (while moving, idle obviously will be higher). Just opening the hood vents, I was about 20-30* over ambient. Prior, basically stock for the intake system and the ceramic coated exhaust headers, I was about 50-70* over ambient then wrapping the exhaust below the headers up to the first cat reduced to about 40-60* over ambient. It does raise if I sit at idle but it's still way lower because of the open vents on the hood. The TB is 52mm x 2 inlets so 104mm total and the intake tubes are 55mm I.D. x 2 (minus those "tube shaping coils" they have inside). The original MAF setup was roughly 3" I.D. overall with a 55mm Mustang MAF sensor body choke point in the center.
The Y-Coupler I designed is 104mm I.D. at the large opening with the two 52mm I.D. outlets (104mm minimum volume at any given point in the coupler) that go to the main intake tubes w/ a 22.5* bend at the center of the coupler. My friend is WAY better at CAD than I am (he designs parts for a living) so he's re-designing it for me (and he wants one too) to look more like a real part ;) Next time I'll prob print in a special TPU (Thermal Plastic Urethane) I have called NinjaFlex which is awesome for structure, tear resistance, and heat tolerance. I might even build it with some ABS structure since I can print w/ two materials at a time which would allow a more rigid structure at say the connection ports with ABS or say 75% ABS, 25% TPU with a more flexible portion around say the mid-section using only TPU. TBD.
One thing w/ MAF (ya'll prob know this :D ) is it needs laminar (even/level/not turbulent) air flow to measure accurately. MAF setups usually have a mesh screen to make this happen so I had to make sure I added that which I did. Since the pipe and air filter hide it, it was ok for it to not look pretty but it's nylon screen so it's tough and I used ABS plastic slurry to form the outer ring and basically mold it into the filter and around the pipe. Works very well :)
Tuning Progress Updates:
Since I almost doubled my intake size, my MAF table was WAY off. What was running perfectly fine, won't even start now :D I had to increase the MAF table values and now I'm running at a much lower MAF AD Count across the entire RPM range (expected).
My average MAF AD Counts were about 125-175 for idle w/ the 3" setup and 55mm MAF body choke point. When it's a solid tune, closer to the 125-135 range, and a tune that's decent but def needs refinement we'll say 150-225 average.
My average MAF AD Counts now are about 50-60 so I finally get to use the lower MAF table. I gather this means this will open up the upper portion of the MAF table too since it's not being choked at the upper end. I think a bit over 850 is the highest I've seen so far.
Took me a while to get it to just run cuz I was paranoid about flooding the engine again and it was hard to get a reading on the HEGOs w/ the short run time. I need to make a custom Histogram for the HEGO Voltage now for these hard/fail start situations rather than gamble "Am I rich or lean?" cuz finding out I was rich and now am richer (not financially:*( ) sucks cuz you can flood the engine fast if you're over and recovery seems to usually be pull all spark plugs and air out which even then takes a couple/few hours....
So I used some logic, watched the Dashboard HEGO voltage and saw blips showing .2-.4 and figured w/ the wider air intake I was probably running way lean and upped the values. Finally got it running and then was able to continue tuning the MAF table to get it running properly again.
ECTs are always 178*~ rarely going above 180* even on a hard pull but I haven't done a balls out pull more than say 1/4 mile. I have seen it drop to 174-176* plenty even on 110*+ days on a decent pull so sayin 178* average is true and very consistent ;) I love my Robert Shaw 180* thermostat and FlowKooler Water Pump :D I have replaced the ECT sensor and the new one reads exactly the same plus I have an inline analog temp gauge in the cooling piping and the dash gauge using a separate sensor so 3 separate locations, and they all agree too so it's not mis-info ;) I did modify a couple tables/scalars to accommodate this a while back which did help. The default is 180* ECT for the next "level up" for some fuel/spark/etc. tables ideally I figure for a 190* thermostat. I'm in AZ and I replaced an engine from overheating and 190* is pretty border line here in the summer so I'm happy with my 180* and you won't convince me otherwise ;) So because of this I modified the tables/scalars for 170* instead of 180*. W/ the FN022 scalar, I had to change the -30 to -40 since I reduced the 180 to 170 then the tables it affects like FN1306 ECT values incremented logarithmically but JUST changing the scalar FN022 value 180 to 170 value really made the ECT column look "not good". I did this a couple months ago and it made a noticeable difference performance/feelwise and lookin at the FN1306 table, it makes sense as to why. Also, it doesn't seem to have done anything negatively ;)
Crappy Tuning Detour:
When me and my buddy dropped the block in, we went with "yeah it's cool, you can install the engine with the transmission in the truck still." Two of two engine installs I've done this and now this counts for 2 for 2 that I have to remove the transmission to fix something that f'd up during the install when stabbing the engine/transmission together via the engine hoist/engine. It caused the AOD's front pump seal to leak so it's been leaking ever since I did the install I guess 2 years ago now. It's been a slow drip every so often but with all the fun I've been having now everything else has been squared away, the seal finally said F' it and leaks pretty bad. So I get drop the AOD and t-case, and deal with all that. At least I am VERY familiar with this part since I've pulled the AOD/t-case several times over the years now ;) The lesson I'm taking from this is install the engine WITHOUT the transmission installed, then install the transmission. I have NEVER had issues dropping/installing the ZF5 or AODs so I'm sticking with that if there's a next time ;)
The better you fix one thing, the more another thing breaks.... Good life lessons...