TuNiN n00b Exp -Cpl n00b ?s

[entity-unknown]

Aight I'll go with Kreuger effect plus I didn't have much time w/ the new TPS before I modified it :) FUEL_APT_LAST shows as -1 when I'm off the pedal.... Assuming that's flag you mean then it does "work" but I will say there have been plenty of times I don't think I ever saw it pop up. It goes yellow -1 on the dash so it's an obvious signal. I rarely noticed it before but I see the -1 for FUEL_APT_LAST a lot now w/ the new TPS so your point makes sense.

Tempting to go back in the logs and check that out now but meh, I believe you're right so I'm just gonna go forward and take that evidence as a notable for things to look for if a TPS is failing ;) Thank You as always!

[entity-unknown]

I finally have a working transmission again and holy shit is this one fast :D 0-60 in 9 seconds and she's got tuning room to grow :D <3 I also do rolling starts vs. hard starts cuz I respect my gears and gain nothing from trashing them so it's probably a second or so faster :D I built the trans myself which makes this more awesome ;) AOD w/ 4R70W gears :D <3 I can now modify it and know what I'm doin and have reasonable expectations of results. My friend put it best when he explained it to some others "He got so pissed about his transmission and getting ripped off he learned how to build it himself" and that is 100% factual ;)

My build thread on that is here if interested:
https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/ ... too.527188

As expected, a new transmission required a tuning adjustment. Not REQUIRED but more required because I can and have the logs and I'd never sleep if I just let it run when I know I can make it better ;)

The "wall" I've mentioned before was also the transmission as suspected but the TPS was another one. Now I've unlocked everything from the mechanical aspect especially the ability to easily run over 4K. W/ my block, it has a zero balance crank/fly wheel so I can do about 6-8K RPMs for redline (have NOT tested that out yet but hitting 6K at a stop in park since a friend asked what it sounded like was not hard and felt it had more to go).
I think there's something w/ the zero balance too cuz it's super quiet unless you put a load on it. Wonderful thing just a notable like you can't show your exhaust off in the parking lot sittin there.

So here's some log screen shots of the difference between the AOD I smoked (F' Monster Transmissions for selling me a stock AOD w/ original Ford OD for the HP/HD 3x price) vs. the new AOD w/ the 4R70W gears I heavily built.
You can see my full tear down review of the AOD Monster Transmission sold me... It's pretty horrific...
https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/ ... rs.527152/

Just before blowing up the AOD w/ a pretty solid tune:

Blowing up the AOD because everything was working so wonderfully and some guy had to show off with an accel on the freeway so I had to show him up..... Smooth Operator :D At least the OD band didn't fail until I got off the freeway so he never saw any issues :D

2 Results after the AOD w/ 4R70W gears build I did and my first MAF table adjustment after I'll have a few more to do after to fine tune it again but now w/ the consistency w/ everything, it really should tune well. It may be a "no brainer" that a perfectly working drive train will give more consistent results to tune around but it's very different from the "awareness" vs. knowing since we have real data to see/prove things vs. "the feelz". It's def the nice thing about the entire journey I've had so far (more to go) goin from what felt great to... Holy shit! And STILL having more to go but more importantly everything in between so I really do have a good understanding of good vs. bad and so much more vs. just "the feelz" :)

I will say the best part right now is the reactions of folks when I disappear from a light. There's been several times now that everyone just sat at the light even tho it was green :D <3

Thank You again, again, again Decipha for your part in these capabilities <3

[entity-unknown]

So I have an interesting story to share about an 87 Ford Truck. Ford put the HEGO wiring on the blower motor circuit. Because of how they wired it, the blower motor while off allows the Negative current into the Positive current..... When the blower motor is on, it causes about a .1-.2 voltage drop for the HEGOs on the 1 and 2 settings. The drop increases the higher the blower setting. This as you'd imagine really messes up the EFI because the O2s read lean so the ECM adds more fuel... O2s continue to read a lower value and you can imagine how this continues. I've never used my heater for over a decade cuz of the voltage drop. Now I have all these fancy logs I got to see it was only on one circuit, the ECM is not affected. Well... I thought so but then watchin the logs while tuning, I turned the heater on and watched the HEGOs drop.... BS!!! But ok. I've removed the blower motor off that circuit and things behave better now especially the HEGO readings. I can also use my blower motor again albeit there is still a hit to the HEGO.
Putting the blower motor on it's own Negative circuit and retain the switch/speed functions is gonna be a nightmare which requires ripping the entire dash out. So that will never happen. The impact isn't too horrible so as long as I get my tune solid, then I can live with the performance impact it will cause.

The key thing is I had to move the Positive for the blower fed directly from the battery via a fuse/relay. W/ the relay, that feedback loop can not occur ever unless I turn the blower motor on vs. w/o the relay/dedicated Positive, that feedback loop is always there. The most F'd up part is testing the current on the Positive & Negative wires for the blower motor. Key off, they register as Negative to the battery post current test. Key on... They both register as Positive. Blower Switch on, they register correctly at the motor but at the resistor pack, Positive AND Negative are present on the Negative wires and Positive wires hence why it messes up the HEGO readings.

Below is the thread I made regarding this and I'll write up another thread about the fix I did. Still this is a big cause for the fight I've had w/ tuning my MAF curve... Add all the other issues I had to and it's been a hell of a fight ;) In this case, this is literally "by design" from Ford. They fixed the issue somewhere between 87, 88, or 89 before they finished the 4th gen line of trucks too. Such a horrible gen only cuz of all the weird shyte Ford did to em.

https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/ ... ed.527905/



Fuel errors on 3rd MAF change since blower motor fix:

1.025
1.002
0.988
0.996
1.017
1.005
0.997
0.991
0.995
1.000
1.002
0.997
0.998
1.001
1.000
0.995
0.997
1.020
1.007

Haven't really ever had that close of #s in every row until now.

[entity-unknown]

Here's the log of when I turned the heater on and the pic of the graph showing when it happens. I only set it to #2 for the speed setting too so 3 or 4 would have a much larger impact. Turning on the AC has an even bigger impact but I've never recorded that since I don't use my AC/not charged. It is all functional/new, just don't care w/ the open top and really wanted to finish the engine before I charge it in case I have to pull anything off. Regardless, when I did have AC many years ago, turning it on would bog the engine down heavily. Thought it was just normal but now seein this since now I have logs, (knowin how to read wiring diagrams better helps too) I see what likely happened and why the truck runs like shyte w/ the AC. Might not be an issue w/ my fix tho. TBD one day maybe ;)

[jsa]

Thanks for posting.

Not funny to deal with for you, but funny to think about the possibilities :)

[entity-unknown]

HA! NP and you're welcome! It was quite the adventure.... ;) I did some electrical and had a basic understanding of 12v about 15-18 years ago when I first tried to figure out the heater/voltage drop issue. Because of the weird shyte it did especially with the voltage for both of the blower fan wires being Neg. w/ KeyOff but then switching to Pos. w/ KeyOn and getting a Neg. AND Pos. reading when the truck is on for the Neg. blower switch wires..... I didn't touch any electrical for a few years after because I seriously believed I had no f'in clue what I was doin at that point.

Got forced into it later w/ my motorcycle then the truck again and never seen anything like that since till revisiting the blower motor :D :\ Knowing a lot more now, done a lot more electrical since, plus more/better tools helped too and I guess I knew what I was doin to begin with ;)

[jsa]

You've done well to identify what is going on. Very poor design choice by ford, putting a key sensor on a high current fan circuit.

Have to relabel the fan switch positions as economy and race, lol.

[decipha]

That may have been by design. They figured the richer running engine would help stabilize the engine more when the blower motor is on.