EFIDynoTuning Forum

OldBroncoRacer wrote: ↑2022 Sep 12, 19:26

dleach1407 wrote: ↑2022 May 07, 00:42 Honestly no... I'm helping my friend build a coyote powered fox. All my spare time has gone to that. I did get the valve covers done and now have the coils mounted on them.

Did those connectors, that either you, or someone else, was talking about earlier, work?

-ed

Which connectors? The coil connectors? If so, yes. They fit perfectly. I got them from map performance i believe.

These? https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/produ ... l5u918efd5

-ed

OldBroncoRacer wrote: ↑2022 Sep 23, 15:40 These? https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/produ ... l5u918efd5

-ed

Yes, those are the ones.

I'm glad this thread has continued and been helpful.

The racing off season will be starting soon, have 1 or 2 events left. Then I'm going to attempt to do this again.

For engine harness I've changed to use the 94-95 mustang 5.0 engine harness as a base and just add in the wiring for the coil packs. This way I have all the correct plugs and correct lengths other than the 8 coil packs which will be easy to add. The ECU fender harness I'm still thinking use the V6 harness as a base and adding in the wiring needed for the 5.0 with coil packs. But I'll see as I start doing it.

The trigger wheel has been harder than initially thought. The SN95 5.0 can't easily sandwich a trigger wheel between the harmonic balancer and crank pulley. The Explorer integrated harmonic, pulley, trigger wheel assembly does not work with the SN95 mustang serpentine system due to different depths. I tried adapting the 64bit Tuning trigger wheel to the back of the SN95 balancer unsuccessfully.

So what know? Time to do it myself. I'm going to take the balancer to a machine shop to get a lip machined on the backside snout. Then use SendCutSend to get a trigger wheel cut out that will press onto the newly machined lip. Maybe a few weld tacks to make sure it stays in place. This will allow use of the explorer timing cover and sensor.

Oh yea, found this enough about trigger wheel design:

In general, for the stongest, cleanest signal:

The tooth should be as wide as the gap,
The gap should be as deep as the tooth,
The wheel should be at least as thick as the sensor element (not the whole tip, just the sensing element - typically ~1/8 inch).

Source: http://megasquirt.free.fr/sources/MS/ma ... 2/36-1.htm

The explorer wheel has a thickness of ~0.25 inch. The 64bit Tunning wheel has a thickness of 0.125". I'm leaning towards the 0.25" thickness for mine.

I'm finally getting back on this topic and think I'm better prepared this year to complete it.

I've designed, cut, and machined a trigger wheel to fit on the stock SN95 harmonic dampener. The back of the dampener was machined to accomplish a press on fit of the trigger wheel. The machined surface ends 1.7" from inside end of the dampener. This put the trigger wheel in the center of the explorer crank sensor when using the explorer timing cover. I've started design of my coil brackets. They will mount above the valve covers using stand off on the valve cover mounting studs. Coils will be Ford Godzilla coils with LS plug wires. I'm using trick flow valve covers and can't bring myself to grind and weld on them at the moment. Hence the bolt on solution for coil brackets.

Awesome!!! Can't wait to see it come together...the more updates the better

I'll update this thread with as much detail as possible. But if you're a visual learner I'll also have videos on my YouTube channel (RinerAutomotive) coming soon.

Hard at work getting the ECU fender harness finished. I'm using a 94 Mustang V6 fender harness as my base and stealing wires from a later Mustang 4.6L to add to it. You may ask why not start with the V8 harness? Well I had already started modifying the V6 harness since I had it laying around from the engine swap. Plus I know this harness fits the car since it came out of the car. The later V8 harness had the CCRM in the fender well instead of at the engine fan and maybe a few other things were different. But overall it was pretty easy to grab a few wires and change over. This harness I am almost done with.

The engine harness I will be using the factory Mustang 5.0L harness and add wires for coils, cam sync, and crankshaft position. Sounds pretty easy. I will also remove the wires for the distributor, which are no longer needed.

You'll see two books on the table, they are Ford Service Wiring Diagrams. These are invaluable if you plan to do any electrical troubleshooting or electrical rework like this. You can find these occasionally for sale on eBay. I have a book for 94 Mustang and 03 Crown Vic/Grand Marquis/Town Car.

Starting to make good progress on this. Most of the big items are complete or in work. Coil bracket was ordered from SendCutSend today.

If video is more your thing, well you're in luck check out the link below:
https://youtu.be/M0aduwqQFLg