bank 1 rich bank 2 ok

[lugbolt]

I ordered a NEW set of headers, and the guy who builds them died--so I haven't gotten anything yet. It's coming up on a year.

So-I took the headers completely off of the car. Replaced the silicone with gaskets. Still a tiny leak at the right side, between the adapter plate and the head. I don't see anything wrong with the parts, but it does have a tiny leak there that I can't seem to get figured out. Now,between the header and the adapter plate, that's all sealed up nicely now. This Helped the differential between banks at idle, still shows a sizable (10-20%) difference when cruising and it seems to be RPM related, meaning 1500-1800 rpm with little to no load, just maintaining speed (in my case 50-60 mph in 6th). At idle it's really close, 2-3% at most. Or was this morning. With this car who knows, it could be 30% now, and maybe zero tomorrow. It has a mind of it's own for sure. I was thinking maybe PCV issue BUT every 408w fox body I seen with a super victor/elbow/90mm, all uses the same PCV setup. Actually that's the reason I put this thing together the way I did, make it easier (run-of-the-mill) for ME to tune by asking questions.


Another issue that drives me absolutely crazy that I can't figure out--if I'm cruising at no matter what RPM (I haven't tried higher rpm), say I get off the throttle to decel a little coming up on a curve or traffic or whatever. Then, once I get back into the throttle even the slightest bit, it goes lean big time, feel it, see it on the WB too. Didn't datalog it (yet). I had asked about it before but I think it was on the old board. Even if I'm sitting at a stop light, idling (800), and start to throttle up to accel from a stop, it will go lean for a split second, WB goes to 1.2X and even higher, engine runs like absolute poo, then the corrections take over and it will drop back to around 1.0x and it'll run "decent". Dunno what to do there but it's very very annoying. With this setup, the difference between idle and 2000 RPM is a VERY slight touch of the throttle, there is nothing in between (in neutral, first and usually second gear) so parking lots are a lot of clutch slippage. First gear, it will literally spin the tires as the corrections take over from the lean spot.

oh and a stupid question, don't think its related. When I start the car, cold, while cranking (1-2 seconds at most) the tach will jump up to 1000-3000 rpm berfore the engine starts. Once started it works normal. It doesn't do it hot, but it doesn't crank but about 1/4 second before starting when it's hot. Idea? I thought bad ground but I've checked all the ones I know of via voltage drop test; all fine.

[dleach1407]

That shop no longer makes headers since he died assuming it's the same shop people on the coral were talking about. I would try getting in touch with them to get a refund. Are there no of the shelf headers you can use?

[lugbolt]

Yeah I probably can. George called me a while back and said that Craig was sick and it didn't look good. I told him let's let it ride-in hopes that RCI would be able to bring in another experienced fabricator to fill orders. Looks like that hasn't happened, which is unfortunate in several ways. I've reached out to George, and we'll see where it goes.

There are other brands out there. I just don't know what's decent and what's not. I just got through building an entire set for my Maverick and that's an option that's not quite off the table for this car but frankly after all is said and done, it's cheaper to just buy them. And a LOT less work! I just don't know what's out there that is any count quality wise. I sure don't like these Hookers.

And lastly if I have to buy new, I'm also going to have to rebuild the entire mid pipe.