EFIDynoTuning Forum

if its running rich you need to lean it out. If its going rich when going in to closed loop then that means your o2s are not functioning correctly.

To the OP; may I ask what pin and wire color did you use for your wideband? My last car was a '95 and online schematics/wire color didn't match the actual pin I ended up using.

Fasterthangas wrote: ↑2021 Jun 08, 17:12 To the OP; may I ask what pin and wire color did you use for your wideband? My last car was a '95 and online schematics/wire color didn't match the actual pin I ended up using.

Should be pin 33. I dont have the wire color but its the EGR wire you tap your wideband output to. According to veryuseful.com the wire color is brown/pink but its for sure pin 33

dleach1407 wrote: ↑2021 Jun 08, 22:17

Fasterthangas wrote: ↑2021 Jun 08, 17:12 To the OP; may I ask what pin and wire color did you use for your wideband? My last car was a '95 and online schematics/wire color didn't match the actual pin I ended up using.

Should be pin 33. I dont have the wire color but its the EGR wire you tap your wideband output to. According to veryuseful.com the wire color is brown/pink but its for sure pin 33

Thank you!

Fasterthangas wrote: ↑2021 Jun 08, 17:12 To the OP; may I ask what pin and wire color did you use for your wideband? My last car was a '95 and online schematics/wire color didn't match the actual pin I ended up using.

I thought about putting in the wideband but one Krem12 over at AFM said Decipha did his remote tune with just the stock narrow bands.

yep done hundreds with just narrowbands no problem. Wideband does make it faster and easier though.

decipha wrote: ↑2021 Jun 08, 07:31 if its running rich you need to lean it out. If its going rich when going in to closed loop then that means your o2s are not functioning correctly.

I don't want to go changing too much in the T4M2 tune that you created. And since I cant really trust the MAF signal I have I am not sure what I should change to correct the fuel without messing up the balance of the other settings. I am thinking maybe changing the fuel injector values. Maybe even trying to get one of the injectors out to get the actual part number.

I don't think the O2s are bad because they are both giving similar signal. I have not ever had two O2s fail in the exact manner before so I am taking that as an indication that they are working and the mixture is in fact rich. I will test them out as soon as I can just to be sure.

Ideally how well does the car have to run before I can get a remote tune from you?

maf is the whole tune why cant u trust it ?

car doesnt have to run at all

decipha wrote: ↑2021 Jun 10, 20:47 maf is the whole tune why cant u trust it ?

car doesnt have to run at all

The MAF is unknown - probably calibrated but for what I don't know. Without being able to know how much air is coming in I don't know how to properly adjust the tune. I guess I could just go pull fuel at different loads but it seems like that is the wrong way to fix the problem.

I will probably do the remote tune next week then. I'll have the cash and hopefully the time. I just never know after holidays, sometimes work gets crazy after a holiday.

Happy Father's Day, Juneteenth, Weekend, and anything I missed.

You don't need to know what MAF it is or the calibration info. Lock it in open loop, clear kams, reduce the whole MAF curve side of the table by 5%, upload tune, see if it runs enough to warm up to operating temperature, repeat until it will run, warm it up see where afr at idle is, reduce or increase the whole curve until your AFR is close to stoich. Once it's close you can enable closed loop and use the histograms to dial it all the way in. Changing the MAF curve is the main thing you do when tuning. Every time you make a change, save the tune as a new tune so if you severely messed something up you can revert to the previous tune.