95 Mustang T4M0 to T4M2

[JhZs]

I was trying to start a base tune with the T4M2 bin on my 95 Mustang. I was able to get connection to the QH and datalogging looked to be working. I loaded in the modified T4M2 bin into the QH but I could not get the car started. The car would start fine with the stock ECU. I figure the problem is probably one or a combination of two problems I ran into adjusting T4M2 to my engine. My engine builder swapped my stock MAF with a Pro-M MAF that looks from the information on it to be calibrated for 30# injectors. I did upgrade to 30# injectors with the new engine build. The other problem I think may be the spark advance. The stock ecu tune has the spark advance for low rpm low load up at 55 degrees. I am not great with the other tables that adjust spark but if 55 degrees is what the engine needs to crank over then the table I built with the T4M2 bin is way too low. Unfortunately I only had time to adjust up to 45 degrees before the battery died.

Also, the write ups are very specific about using the Ford distributor and nothing else. Is this up to date information? I haven't seen a new non refurbished Ford distributor for sale in 10 years. Maybe I am not looking hard enough but I dont know where to get one in 2021. If anyone knows where you can still get one of those, please let me know.

[decipha]

post your tune file

[dleach1407]

You should use an OEM distributor, they are superior in every way. Rebuild one yourself using a motorcraft pickup if you need to. You dont need an OEM to get it started using T4M2 though. There are multiple timing tables in T4M0, but the timing is simplified in T4M2 so there is only one timing table that is relevant. I have a couple OEM 95 distributors, if you are in a bind and absolutely cant find one I may be willing to sell a rebuilt one with a new Motorcraft pickup. Every time I see one in the junkyard, I grab it so I have a few spares.

If you dont have to use a chip/tune to run the 30# maf and injectors then you could simply use stock parameters for injectors and maf since its a calibrated maf. It should at least start and be pretty close. If you plugged in the actual injector data into the tune, you would need to increase (i believe) the maf curve to compensate for the calibration. I believe you would increase the whole maf curve by about 1.57, This would increase the maf curve by about 57%. 19x1.57 is almost 30 so thats where I got that number from. All a calibrated maf does is trick the computer into thinking less air is going into the engine that really is to compensate for big injectors so if you tell the computer the correct injector size, to get the maf flow you have to do the same to the maf curve.

[decipha]

That doesn't apply to tunerpro with the K-constant. Changing the injector values will change the maf transfer values so if he put the injector data in the maf would already be updated for a calibrated maf.

yes oem distributor is the only way to go. As with all fords the oem ford ignition is far superior than anything aftermarket.

[dleach1407]

Oh yeah forgot about the upgrade. Mine was tuned before the k constant changes. Tuner pro is getting to the point where it's basically automatic setup

[JhZs]

Thanks for the replies - it is truly appreciated.

I posted the last version of the tune that I tried. The car was getting closer to turning over the more spark advance I added. I will probably have time later today to try again. I have the battery charged back up and ready to go. I will probably add a little more spark advance each try and see if it will start.

That doesn't apply to tunerpro with the K-constant. Changing the injector values will change the maf transfer values so if he put the injector data in the maf would already be updated for a calibrated maf.

I do not understand this K-constant. I think I probably changed the values back when I noticed they changed. I vaguely remember some table was not the way I set it up so I changed it back.

If you dont have to use a chip/tune to run the 30# maf and injectors then you could simply use stock parameters for injectors and maf since its a calibrated maf.

Well it starts but it does not run correctly with the calibrated MAF and stock tune. I am pretty sure the MAF is screwing up the load and spark calibration in the stock tune. I can start the car and drive it if I barely use the accelerator(0-20%). If I push the accelerator down anymore the car will struggle and lug along. I fully expected to have to build a tune after the engine rebuild. I just thought I would be dialing back some fuel from the 30# injectors. With the calibrated MAF it has thrown an extra variable in to the equation and I have no MAF curve for it.

I will check my stuff. I may have kept my stock distributor. Well if the original one that was on the car is an actually Ford distributor then I may have one I can rebuild. Rebuilding them is was no easy task for me. Took forever for me to press the gear off and back on.

[Blocmi]

I seem to remember a post in the old forum saying a Spectra FD22 distributer was the equivalent to an OEM replacement.
I can't remember if it recommended replacing the pickup with a Ford pickup, or using as-is.
I've been running one as-is for a couple years now with no issues.

[JhZs]

I seem to remember a post in the old forum saying a Spectra FD22 distributer was the equivalent to an OEM replacement.
I can't remember if it recommended replacing the pickup with a Ford pickup, or using as-is.
I've been running one as-is for a couple years now with no issues.

Thanks. When I searched that I found that I have already purchased one of these from Amazon. It looks like I don't even have a an actual Ford core to rebuild at the moment. I'll start looking around to see if I can find one soon.

[JhZs]

I went through and did the an initial tune again without going back and changing any values. With that new T4M2 tune I was able to get the car started. It will idle OK but on the rich side. After about 60 seconds it will start backfiring as the mixture starts richening up.

Good thing is the car started, and also all the sensors look to be reporting correctly so I don't think I have to replace wires or sensors.

[dleach1407]

Pro-M makes a highly accurate shutter wheel if you cant find a stock unit. If you put a motorcraft pip in your distributor and get a pro-m shutter wheel, its gonna be about as good as an OEM unit. The shutter wheels in aftermarket units are not machined precisely which causes inconsistent spark advance. On high hp applications this becomes very problematic. https://www.promracing.com/tfi-distribu ... wheel.html