EFIDynoTuning Forum

What is your application? If it's an EEC-V, which if you're talking about the 5.0 from a 2000 Explorer in your signature, it would be an EEC-V, you'd need module 29. That covers pretty much everything from 96-04.

http://www.efidynotuning.com/started.htm

pcmflash covers 98-04 eec-v

but not necessary since you have the xcal you can write with, although you can't change any of the vid block, read or do more than one vehicle which is nice about pcmflash.

but yeah if you got a deal on the x4 then all good

I was looking at the pcmflash website, did not see EEC-V buried in that long list. It's there, but either I completely did not see it, or I thought it was talking about for the Mondeo that it is listed under. Also on its website, it appears that you need a VCM2 or Scanmatik in addition to the basic hardware and module.

Good enough of a deal for me. I only need capability to do one vehicle. This is the only one I have that will be on a factory PCM and require tuning. In the unlikely event that it gets sold the device will go with it.

I'll have a few others that require tuning, but one is running Holley Sniper, one is diesel with a Hydra Tuner installed (if I do t sell it), and the last will be running a megasquirt based system.

You just need the software and a J2534 device. Could be a VCM2, Scanmatik, Mongoose, or like I said, I use a GM MDI2.

PCMFlash does work on the Explorer PCM if you wanted to go that route in the future. I would not use the tunes that come on the sct device at all for the explorer stuff. I tried that and they were pretty lean and transmission pressures seemed to be a bit high in my opinion. Your truck should shift like stock if everything is hooked up properly and working. The 1999 ranger to 2000 explorer swap can be a bit tricky to get everything working correctly. It is a ton more than just swapping the engine and trans and harness over. The speed sensor will need to work and send the signal to the pcm and or abs module correctly and it needs to be the correct sensor setup as well. There are several articles on the ranger boards that describe how to get it all working correctly. If the pcm isn't reading the correct speed you will cause damage to the transmission. !.7 roller roclers are a bit big to be on a stock explorer engine with p heads as well. may want to double check your piston to valve clearances. It may be fine but they are a bit large for stock pistons, heads, and springs.

The cam sensor code may be due to a bad sensor or syncro, but it may just be that you are flashing the pcm with the wrong tune. There was a switch between a 2 or 3 wire sensor somewhere close in those model years. So if it is flashing it with the wrong sensor tune it will not see the correct cam signal and you will get that code. Also could be why it runs like Poop. LOL. I would get it running and driving as close to stock as you can with no tune modifications other than turning off PATS, EGR, ETC. The tune could mask a whole bunch of underlying issues and you'll end up chasing your tail.
The X4 will accept custom tunes from a tuner that has the SCT software. The SCT software is very limited on the explorer PCM and doesn't work as well as some other options out there. Just FYI.

BOOSTEDEVERYTHING wrote: ↑2024 Sep 03, 12:32 PCMFlash does work on the Explorer PCM if you wanted to go that route in the future.

I'll keep that in mind for future, for now I have the X4.

As far as the swap is concerned, everything is hooked up properly and working. I carefully selected my donor vehicle based on my truck's year model. The big sticking points are the fuel system, the VSS, and the PATS. Both my truck and donor match on all counts. Used Forscan to mate up the PATS system and make the VSS adjustment for tire size and speed. Seem to need a tuner to make any changes to gear ratio, but I actually plan to swap the 3.73 gears into the Ranger as well.

As far as I know it does shift like stock for an Explorer. I drove the donor for 1-200 miles before the swap, including home from the purchase. No shifting "problems" noted. No shifting "problems" now. After the swap it shifted the same. Stock shifting just appears to be rather lazy, but that was the only example of a 5.0 Explorer that I've driven down the road. It makes sense that Ford would program the shifting to be that way, but I'd prefer something more like a fun sports car. Don't know about line pressures, but the shifting with the tune installed felt a lot better to me.

For the codes. I still don't know about the P0340 (CMP circuit) code, but it hasn't come back yet. I think that the P0300 and P0308 have been solved. Turns out that I had a spark plug wire that got a little burned on a header and I think it was intermitten short to ground. Repositioned the wire and it too hasn't returned yet. I need to get a new wire set and do a better job of routing them.

The idle issues seem to be a combination of tuning not matching the camshaft and a bad IAC valve. When I installed the new engine I installed a new TPS and IACV because I didn;t like the old dirty valve sitting on top of the new engine. Swapped back to the old IACV and it cleaned up the idle a bunch and hasn't stalled again yet.

With those cleared up, now I'm getting a P0455 EVAP system leak. From my reading and wiggling some lines under the hood, I suspect that I have a vacuum leak between the intake and the purge valve. It's an easy first place to check.


---- TL/DR----

1.7 Rockers...

Let me back up a bit before proceeding. I didn't realize it until just now, but I need to update that signature. The engine in the truck now is not the engine I started this thread with.

I had two Explorer 5.0L engines here at the house. The first was a 150K mile engine from a rollover that I had reason to believe was in very good shape (probably was at the time) and that I had for several years for a previous swap that fell through. The second was the engine that came in the donor I bought last year for the AWD transmission and other drivetrain parts, I thought it was worn out. I knew going in that I was going to run one engine for a few years and rebuild the other to swap in. Turns out I picked the wrong engine to start with and things progressed quicker than expected.

The first engine is the one that I initially used in the swap. When prepping for the previous swap I had installed the 1.7 rockers with upgraded valve springs. That combination was just fine, no PTV issues, and that rocker swap has been done on the Explorer engines a fair bit in the past. It is successful, but not a lot of gains. Unfortunately, that engine had other issues, like almost no oil pressure at warm idle. Put a couple hundred miles on it after the swap and it ran like a champ (considering), but with the oil pressure I didn't trust getting very far from home.

Same week I started this thread (next day IIRC) the block from the second engine was dropped off at the machine shop. At the time I still didn't know entirely what I was planning. I think what I had in mind was valve job on the heads and a better camshaft, didn't stay that way. Well, a few weeks ago we got a new engine installed, 0.030 overbore with slight compression bump from pistons. Also got a "top end package"; ported heads, ported intake intake, custom grind cam, upgraded springs to match the cam. With the new cam I went back to stock 1.6 rocker arms. I may do roller rockers at some point, but it'll stay with 1.6 ratio. That'll only happen I get a good deal on good used ones.

I'll get on updating that signature next chance I get.

Sounds like a fun setup for sure. The shifting on these is much better after a few transmission modifications. I have seen issues with premature clutch wear when people just turn the shift pressures up depending on the application. If your looking to just change shift points and form them up a bit, tuning may be fine but most of the shift feel and engagement is actually done with accumulators in the 4r70w and turning up the pressures is kind of a band aid type fix. Check out the tccoa forums. There is a good article on there about modifying the 4r70w that is actually co authored or authored (not sure which exactly) by one of the guys who had a hand in the engineering of the transmission. Some things are small valve body modifications and swapping out some accumulator springs and you won’t need to remove the trans or disassemble much of it at all. I’ll see if I can find a link and post it up for you. Good info and worth doing. I e built hundreds of them over the years like this and they last and shift great.

BOOSTEDEVERYTHING wrote: ↑2024 Sep 06, 23:06Check out the tccoa forums.

I have done lots of reading on the j-mod, including it's home at TCCOA.

Truth is that this transmission appears to be around 180k miles. It's not slipping and seems to hold power well, but it still had the factory dipstick knockout plug in the pan if that tells you anything about how it was maintained over that period. With this particular transmission, I think I'm really just after a bit firmer and better shift points. I don't need tire chirping shifts, as an AWD it's not going to be chirping the tires anyway.

With the bump in power and more agressive driving that it will experience, I figure I'll be doing a transmission in the next two years or so. I know that j-mod is valve body and accumulators, and can be done with the transmission installed. I don't really want to spend the money throwing good parts and mods at this trasnsmission. I'd rather pick up another transmission next year, maybe next year, and start building it up with the upgrades and mods to swap in when this one goes out. Or maybe just save my pennies and be prepared to order one pre-built when the time comes.

At this point, I guess that bandaid is the name of the game for this particular transmission. Need to get the bugs sorted, a proper exhaust, and the engine tuned, then the drivetrain portion of this will be done until for now. After getting it's suspension squared away (need custom parts that aren't available currently), and doing some work on my F-100 and other Ranger, I'll circle back around to the transmission situation.

What type of parts do you need for the suspension? I can't imagine anything that isn't available for a Ranger.

Everything I need is available if I were working on a coil spring 2wd truck, unfortunately I'm not.

Primarily extended upper control arms for a lowered torsion bar Ranger to correct camber. A few places used to make them, Michigan Metal Works and Illusive Fabrication are still around, but they either aren't making them at current or won't respond to my attempts to contact. I've found a third, recommended through a Facebook group, that says they will make them and that they are basically the same as a coil spring arm, but that statement is concerning.

Although the frame mounts are the same, the upper control arms between a coil spring and a torsion bar truck are not the same. Ball joint sizes appear to be different both where they mount in the arm and attach to the spindle, but I haven't ordered a set to measure for myself yet. Extended coil spring arms for lowering are about 3/8" longer than stock, the stock torsion bar arms are already about 1" longer by my rough measuring.

I need to get some measurements and information then talk to that third option again.

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On other note, my misfire and CMP codes seem to be solved. They haven't returned since fixing that plug wire. Same for the IAC valve. I did have a vacuum leak between the intake and the purge valve. Fixed that, but haven;t cleared, or driven it enough to clear the code yet. If it doesn;t clear next time I drive I'll clear manually and see if it comes back.

Getting closer to being ready for the tuning. Make sure I've got all of these little issues fixed, then I'll get a proper exhaust done, and order a set of larger injectors to install with the tune. Factory 19lb @60PSI injectors would probably be enough for my build and needs, but they are close to 200k miles and I'd feel better about having a fresh set of 30lb injectors installed. I know that 80s are recommended somewhere, but 30s would exceed the power levels I ever intend to make with this engine/vehicle.