1999 3.0 Misery

[toadboy]

OK, first time posting, so please bear with me. I bought a 99 Ford Ranger, 3.0 flex, 4x4 reg cab to use around the farm and local light hauling (kayaks). It ran roughly when I picked it up and I trailered it home.

I scanned it with my tool. Wow what a list. I have no wipers, dome light, door dinger, no power to the 4x4 switch, etc....
I ordered a new GEM module to address the power issues. My question here is should I suspect the EEC considering the myriad of codes?

Only found 1 30 amp fuse blown in the power distribution block; it blew a replacement fuse immediately when ignition was energized.

The list of codes:
P0135--Oxygen O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
P0141--O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
P0155--O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0176--Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0340--Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0743--Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Solenoid Circuit Electrical
P0750--Shift Solenoid A Malfunction
P0755--Shift Solenoid B Malfunction
P0760--Shift Solenoid C Malfunction
P1409--EGR Vacuum Regulator circuit malfunction
P1451--EVAP Control System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
P1747--Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid - Short circuit
P1754--Coast Clutch Solenoid circuit malfunction

I am overwhelmed, and could use some suggestions as to where to even start. Ordered O2 sensors, and plan on taking to trans shop once I get the engine codes corrected.

[decipha]

its ignorant to post code numbers without their meanings i don't think any of us know the definitions off the top of our heads based on the numbers alone

more details in the forum rules

[motorhead1991]

Screw the door dinger anyways, those things are so annoying (I always unplug them)

[decipha]

those all share a common 12v feed, most likely you lost it, prob time to start checking wiring

[toadboy]

Could you recommend a starting point for "checking wiring"? Could it be the GEM module?

[decipha]

no i don't believe so, thats a primary harness feed. If nothing changed I would first suspect a faulty ignition switch. Or possibly one of the o2 sensor wires got melted on the exhaust and is causing a dead short.

[toadboy]

I'm changing the O2 sensors Sat so I'll see is that is it? Thanks for the lead!!

[toadboy]

Well, I changed the O2 sensors this evening. The front O2 wire had been on the exhaust, but the wires were intact and the insulation in place. I cleared the codes, started the truck and the codes all reappeared. I put a new GEM in too, and it had no effect on the electrical issues. Where would be another likely point of a dead short/ground. I visually checked the transmission harness and it appeared to be ok. With all the transmission codes, could there be an internal short in the transmission? I feel like I'm in over my head!

[decipha]

could be, any one of them sensors with a code could be shorted

[toadboy]

I ordered a transmission, since the majority of the codes are there. The vehicle drives, but the trans is very suspect. I'll update after it gets installed...

[decipha]

i can almost guarantee you that the transmission isn't the issue

the codes its throwing means the transmission isnt getting power

[yeastieBoB]

You can save yourself some money if you spend some time testing instead of throwing parts at the problem.

Electrical issues always take time to troubleshoot. Pick one of those circuits. Find out how to test it at the sensor/solenoid/etc.. Then follow that circuit back to the computer. Test it all along the way and see where the problem starts. Fix the problem, re-run codes, and pick another circuit. Rinse and repeat.

[toadboy]

I am in over my head. I'll unplug the transmission and check for power, but that would be the extent of my elec prowess.

[red5.0fogger]

Look around and follow wires. Look for likely pinch or melt points sharp edges or hot areas like D said. With that many codes there's prob some mice chewed or other visual clues.

[toadboy]

My plot thickens...
I disconnected the transmission power plug (driver side by shift selector). Plug looked a little dirty, so I sprayed it with elec cleaner. I left the trans unplugged. I put a fresh 30 amp fuse in the power distribution block. The fuse did not blow upon ignition this time, and the only code that popped was for TCC. I started the truck and turned it off. Then I had camshaft position sensor and TCC codes. I plugged the trans back up, and tried the key again. The fuse did not blow like it had been before? I drove the truck, and it ran really good. It was very sluggish driving from a start; I had to take off in D1-2. After moving the trans shifted by itself in overdrive. It downshifted and upshifted fairly normal.

So, other than cleaning the connector, the blowing fuse thing has me stumped? I still have no power to the steering wheel components, wipers, and dome light, but I think that is a separate issue from the trans. I think there is a downshifting problem related to the solenoid pack, because the trans had to be downshifted from a stop, but operated correctly while driving. I have a solenoid pack on the way, and new fluid and filter. Could a dirty connector have been causing all the previous codes? This is all new to me! I need to get a good volt meter and learn how to check electrics correctly!

[decipha]

im not familiar with that trans but on the aode they are notorious for trans fluid leaking past the main bulk connector in to the harness and shorting things out. Henry made a better designed bulkhead for the 4rs shortly there after. Usually its accompanied by the tcc shorting and remaining locked while deceling and odd shifts from the epc tv pres getting jacked around.

[toadboy]

Would a valve body update correct the fluid leak, or what is the correction for the leak?

[decipha]

not on the older aode's you just simply replace the trans wiring connector

[toadboy]

Is this the wire harness? https://www.ebay.com/itm/4R44E-4R55E-Tr ... rness.TRS5

[decipha]

no idea that page wont load for me wont do any good anywho as i dont know what your trans looks like internally

its the wires that go in the trans. should have the main connector with an o ring that you push up in to the trans case and the tcc, solenoids tot and epc plugs