1993 F150 4x4 - Trans Tooning

[efloth]

Here is my current tune and a log pulling in low range. The hope is that TCC lockup in 1st will be just the right gear ratio with 33" tires in high range when pulling trailer up the 17% grade up to my house. Truck has SD 80s, AFR heads, 9.8:1 compression running e85. Tripple disk 2k stall converter. She holds 55gallons of fuel, so range is over 400mi driving the foothills of norcal. On the open road range is 550+. Shes as beast off road and in the snow.

Goals I have yet to accomplish:
1. OD lockout switch to hold 1st gear. Patch is included in attached XDF but still needs work.
2. Create VSS based TCC lock/unlock points for when locked 1st gear.
3. 3rd and 4th gear sometimes shift a bit hard. Lowered EPC to 0 below 300 TPREL and that helped but still occasionally shifts hard on hills. I added clutches (totaling seven in 3rd and three in 4th) when I built the trans so not surprised just need a little help pulling some pressure. Also, the manual 2-3 shift is strange and harsh.
4. Thinking I need to bypass the radiator trans cooler. Seems that the engine coolant bypass from the intake to the cold side of the rad is just heating the trans. Engine and trans temp are usually identical. Probably not a bad thing in the winter.

Thanks for the help!

[decipha]

You had fn825a the ect dsdrpm adder locking out base idle control by adding idle rpm even at operating temp.
fn820b was multiplying the iscdc based on load. Not ideal at all when you can dial it in properly.-I see your using pin 21 the iac for your fan code?
I take it you don't have an iac ?

why is your spark so retarded down low? It looks to be over-advanced at high map low rpm as well.

why did you tack the fan code on to the logging patch?

You have wot kams referencing another cell leaning out wot.

Your mapope isn't dialed in which means your ve table is skewed. You also have 10 lbs set to 0 in' reference in the fn074a mapope airmass function which isn't right.

It looks like your injector offset is too low which is causing your crank PW to be excessive as well as skewing the VE table making it non linear.

This is the best I could come up with. She probably won't be too happy til she drops in to closed loop. She's forced in to closed loop at wot so don't do any towing or wot pulls.

[efloth]

I'm honestly not sure how I messed up FN825A so bad. Pin 21 is referencing the CPU pin not the main connector, I definitely have an IAC.
I adjusted 820b by feel and it idles nicely. Thanks for the help dialing in correctly.

Timing was based on the factory 351w tune and that was as good as I could get without a dyno. I messed with timing till I was blue in the face. I am looking forward to trying this out.

Idea with the fan patch was temporary. I plan to use the datalog hook on the console routine when ready to turn off datalogging.

fn074a was copied from my stock tune since I figured they measured it for the stock pipes/cats I am running. It definitely seemed to help but remember I am just a tooner. I am not sure how engine mods effect fn074a or how to dial it in correctly. Is that in the write ups? I may have missed it.

I didn't change injector offset. It is the same as the startup tune you sent over. I just set the fuel pressure to 30psi and went with it.

I'll fire this up and report back. Thanks again.

[efloth]

Way less torque below 2k. Converter does not like to lock up for some reason. Idle and shifting is better for sure.

[decipha]

No, its not in the write up fn074 is dialed in to get mapope where its reasonable. I prefer to dial it in so mapope has more resolution so you have finer control. A speed density write up is on my to do list.

She looked excellent. This should make her pretty much dialed in other than wot. Go ahead and shoot back one quick wot pull in 1st so we can dial in the top of the ve table.

LMK if the converter locks up now back to normal.

which connector pin # are you using?

[efloth]

Ok that makes sense, nice to see wot load in a more reasonable place.
I used the knock sensor wire since it was already running up to the engine harness connector and was not used. I don't remember what pin that is.

Converter is locking normally but back to hard shifting into 3rd. There were a few hard shifts in the wot log (wot pull right at the end)

[wwhite]

My rebuilt e4od slams into 3rd wot high rpm.
I drilled out second and third in the accumulator plate,

2nd needs more, 3rd is almost too much.

I think I can turn down pressure in shifts?

[decipha]

Log is no good you didn't go wot til 3700 rpm and 31.5 mph.
You need to go wot at 600 rpm and 0 mph to lug it down.

You have a major exhaust restriction, You were only at .92 mappa at the most at wot with a 26 map.

It shows you were doing 52mph in 1st before it shifts. Is that accurate?

if your reusing the knock sensor wire for your fan you need to disable the knock sensor in the tune. I'll add it when I get a chance.

Definitely need a wot pull from idle to shift rpm.

[efloth]

OK I'll do it again from a stop. I shifted at 6k but is 5500 ok this time?
speed is correct, 1st gear is 2.71:1, 3.55 gears and 33" tires makes for 1mph per 100 rpm assuming the converter is locked.
I think KIHP is already in the xdf. Does it just need to be set to 0?
There is no factory knock sensor hardware on the 5.8 or ecu. Not sure why Henry left it out. I just used a wire that was left open ended in the intermediate engine harness connector.

I don't think the dual in line cats were ever designed to flow at this power level. I inspected them when I had it out of the truck but could only see the backside of the rear converter. It definitely moves a lot of air, so it is not completely blocked.

[decipha]

whichever rpm you normally run it out to so it can be dialed in

kihp isnt broken out, if it is then its prob the wrong address but in any case it needs to be verified

what is the actual ecu connrctor pin # your using for the fan?

its either your inlet or your exhaust but something is restricting the engine from breathing atmospheric pressure. Could even be the throttle stop not opening all the way.

You need a 4.56 rear end. That gearing is doing you no favors at all.