400hp 351w startup tune

[efloth]

our stock 351 cruises nicely on flat and level with the 33s and same gearing. Is this engine really going to have less torque under 2k than stock? compression is just shy of 10:1

Cleaned, checked and honed 1994 roller block at standard 4" bore.
.010 under crank kit with aluminum bearings
Speed pro H336P hypereutectic pistons with matching Hastings Moly rings
AFR-1472 Aluminum heads - 58cc chamber, 165cc Intake runner (recommend by AFR for better low end torque vs the 185s)
1/2" ARP head bolts
Fel-Pro Performance Head Gaskets 1011-1
Scorpion 1022 Pedestal mount 1.72 roller rockers (I'll be ordering correct length pushrods and pedestal shims when I get to that point)
Standard volume Melling oil pump
Ford factory oil cooler from a 1994 van
AEM 340LPH fuel pump
Summit shorty headers

[Sevensecondsuv]

It'll probably be similar at 2000 but it'll stomp all over the stocker by 3000 and leave it in the dust as it screams to 5000+ while the stocker noses over after 3500. Unless you want to cruise at 90 mph, I see no reason to be geared so tall. The engine is never going to be in it's sweet spot without a lot of downshifting.

What are you doing for an intake? The 351 truck multiport one isn't exactly a race piece.... Although I do hear the 351 lower can be ported and combined with a port matched 302 truck upper to end up with a halfway-decent combo. Even that probably breathes worse than the "small" AFR heads though.

[efloth]

Yeah! I can't wait to get it running! The factory electronic od lockout is all I need when towing or climbing. Everybody drives 80 mph plus out here in Cali so it's not far from your statement.

Big dogs is porting my stock upper and lower intake. They can get them to flow ~240 CFM which is nearly what the ported AFR heads flow. I'm pairing it with a 61 mm BBK throttle body.

[efloth]

[Sevensecondsuv]

Nice!

[efloth]

This is not so nice, the first oil change after 1 heat cycle/15 minutes of runtime.

I did another couple of heat cycles after changing the oil and it was less but still more material than I expected. No chunks but the oil has a copper color. Here is what I drained out of the filter after the second/third run.

I am going to pull the engine and inspect. Just looking for moral support. Thanks guys.

[wwhite]

What type of distributor gear are you running?

[efloth]

It's the factory distributor so cast iron. I believe the copper material is from the thrust bearing. Thinking back to the build, there was no noticeable clearance, so I think that is where I made the mistake. I also have a SFI flexplate and billet converter so I would want more clearance not less. I don't have any experience here but probably not OK to let that wear in, right? I ran the copper oil through a paper towel, and it came right out the other side. It just feels like oil so it's like microscopic dust.

[Sevensecondsuv]

This is the stock iron crank? Worse case letting it wear in is it eats the crank. Which could eventually lead to losing the entire rotating assembly I guess.

Did you measure clearance on the thrust bearing during assembly?

[efloth]

Yea stock crank ground 10 under. When assembling I made the mistake of not measuring thrust clearance. When I saw the spec of .004-.008 I knew tight was OK but there was near zero end play. Stupid mistake. It is wearing in for sure but not sure how that will turn out in the long run. At this point the damage is done so I am going to run it and keep an eye on the oil condition. Hopefully it didn't wipe it out too bad. If I keep getting copper in the oil I'll start tearing it apart again. No fun