TuNiN n00b Exp -Cpl n00b ?s

[red5.0fogger]

Ya I think slow cruising over rocks it's learning the extra idle load, but that's a wild guess. Sounds like a great truck!

[entity-unknown]

Wonderful and something to consider once I figure out what function that is and finish checkin off the n00b checklist ;) Got the exhaust off so I'll report back after some more testing with these CHGs so far. And Thank You! She is an awesome truck and she fights me just like a 21+ year marriage too :D

I've avoided sharin pix cuz this is a technical site, not a show off my toyz place but I figure this gives some clout to me not fibbin about puttin in effort and I can take them off if Decipha doesn't approve.

[red5.0fogger]

Nice!!! I had an 85 f150 which i won the who can go the slowest in 1st gear and 4Low. It had the np435 with about a 6 to 1 first gear. That truck had a small lift kit and 33 inch dunlop mud terrain tires and nice 302 with headers and 4 barrel.

[entity-unknown]

Bad ass that's def a Lo Lo! The 302 is very impressive IMO and it's proven itself. That's why I went w/ the Ford Racing BOSS 347 stroker cuz the 302 HO was plenty but might as well add a lil extra but keep most of my stuff since I had to buy a new block; engine cancer. I have noticed I can almost watch my fuel gauge goin down now tho w/ the 347 block/42Lbs Injs :\
My other Bronco has a 4BT Cummins and an Atlas 4 w/ the 4Lo Lo so I can get out and walk faster than it can crawl too but she can climb hills all on her own :D Haven't done a slow drag comp with her but I won on my carb'd Honda CBR 600 :D

[entity-unknown]

For my MAF scale tuning I've started to tune using TP, STFT, and IMAF. TP is the X scale, IMAF is the Y scale, and LAMBSE1 (I only have one O2) is the Z scale. I use the Running Average and my TP is scaled similar to the IMAF scale using AD Counts.

This seems way easier/faster than say IEGOs or LTFTs especially compared to using RPMs (just cuz I only really knew RPMs when I first started).

I'm still referencing LTFT as a validation point and I figure once I have STFT's more normalized, I'll start focusing on LTFTs to polish it off since STFT will always have some volatility like with the HEGO switching on/off when you're really dialed in.

Does this seem logical and/or did I get anything wrong?

[entity-unknown]

I believe I know the answer which is STFT is good to dial in things broadly i.e. a great place to start. The Value in the ADX Definitions for Fuel_Err_Ego1 (I only have 1 O2 sensor in the Ford Truck w/ MAF Conversion) is really what I need to look at since it's a combination of LTFT & STFT with some math ( (K / L * J) + X )
J= CL_DES (0=OL 1=CL)
K= KAMRF1
L= LAMBSE1
X= Native (I think this just means the value recorded given the Packet Offset)
From the Definition Value notes: "This can be considered a multiplier which would correct the fueling if it had been applied when in closed loop ONLY."
From the Fueling Writeup: "We would now go to the maf transfer and multiply the FLOW at 175 ad counts by 0.806 [Fuel Err value] to make the fuel perfectly dialed in at 175 ad counts now."

On the note of one O2 sensor, I did mention before I had funky issues w/ the KAMRF2/LAMBSE2/Fuel Error values being off because those were mis-reporting. I created a separate thread about that but I resolved it by setting NUMEGO and FN1327 all to 1 which I explain further there. Major improvement :)

Unusual KAMRF2 Values - Lean/Stalling on Sharp Decel - Mono vs. Stereo HEGO(s)
http://efidynotuning.com/forum/viewtopi ... 3308cbd632

[entity-unknown]

Decipha will prob appreciate this... You were right! :) I did have an exhaust leak.
It never occurred to me that I'd have to check the welds of the pipes at the collector of the brand new HTC coated Hedman headers, Part# 86476. The passenger side has a really bad leak in a couple spots from some truly terrible welds. I'll spare the BS story between but I have a new set of the same exact Hedman headers made at the same time/place the last ones were since they have production dates laser etched and this part# only comes from the CA facility. They have the exact same terrible welds, and it leaks the same. The new set even came with a pre-installed NC whistler in one of the pipes :D :\ I have a 3rd replacement set that'll be here eventually so we'll see if it's 3 for 3 fails or just 2 out of 3....

I attached pix for your viewing horror of the leaking welds but there's spatter and rust all over too. You can tell the weld prep work was non-existent here. Both sets made in 2022. The "used" set has about 6-800 miles and the new shiny set hasn't been used ever.

[entity-unknown]

Another issue resolved and this was done with Rubycon brand Capacitors and the EFI Tuning is how I discovered the issue :) TL;DR, I replaced the capacitors in the ECM with the Rubycons and wow talk about unlocking an achievement!

So since I got the JBA headers I now TRULY have no exhaust leaks ;) Thank You again Decipha for calling that out and apologies I was cocky and falsely confident thinkin I had that all squared off. The tuning was getting better but the engine had what felt like some kinda wall it was pushin against. My truck has always had great acceleration but that "wall" always seemed like it was there. I just figured it was normal.

So the exhaust fix definitely unlocked a lot of potential in the tuning and now I really understand how critical an exhaust leak is to EFI especially when your injectors are over double stock, so you have less wiggle room for failure. I'm guessin that's why 19 lbs injectors are stock and the 24lbs is in the high performance Cobra package?

Everything was goin great and I was polishing up my tuning then the truck just died like it ran out of fuel Been there many times w/ the 33 gallon flat bottom tank but this felt a bit different. I was able to get it started back up but had to stumble home from around the corner in front of the police of course so naturally they had to check on me :D (I do love most police too btw) It was very rough and the way it was losing fuel was not like it acts when a fuel pump dies but damn near the same. The weirdest part is it would lose all fuel power (electric overall was solid) for up to a second or so and a lil massaging of the throttle and it'd sputter back.

So I check the logs and shit just goes crazy when it fails. Not surprising but it's all over the place for everything. I exported the logs and looked around the area where it lost it's shit and what stood out the most was the FUELPW1 jumpin up to 13,000+. That doesn't seem right... :D

The pumps prime, I get proper PSI, takes about an hour to bleed off the pressure below 30 PSI so the FPR is good and the fuel pump straight to the battery runs perfectly.

I replaced the IAC just cuz it's been forever and it improved that operation but the logs showed it working fine at the time so I doubted that was the issue and it wasn't.

I questioned the ECM capacitors even though I replaced them last year. The soldering looked good but the capacitors were some generics since I didn't get my Rubycons or Panasonics in on time and figured maybe I'd replace em with the really good ones one day.... That day came ;) So I replaced the 3 main capacitors that are known to fail for spark, fuel and I forget the other one w/ the Rubycons.

So previously my PW was about 800~ at idle. Now my PW is about 1800~ at idle. What's more important is the wave of the PW smoothed out especially under acceleration and you can really feel it. While the acceleration before was "smooth", it wasn't but it went no doubt. It's nothin like my motorcycle or super fast stock Subaru.

Looking at the graphs from then vs. now, I can say all the previously stumbly bits in the wave on accel were felt and now the smoothness of the wave is felt just as well. Pic attached of a hard accel and I JUST fixed this so I have more to go but here's a before and after of about 75% throttle accel with each tune bein I'd say 80% complete on the MAF.

The ONLY thing that sucked about fixing this was my MAF table was completely wrong now so I instantly flooded the engine when I tried to run my current really good tune :D Had to pull the spark plugs and air out the cylinders then adjust the tune WAY down. Took bout a day to get it barely running but then I went back to dialing in the MAF table and got it pretty solid now and just WOW I totally knew a brand new Ford Racing 347 stroker w/ AFR 165cc heads and 42lbs Bosch injectors just N/A could really do a lot more than it is. I was right :D I might have to start wearing my seat belt now ;) :D

[entity-unknown]

So the capacitor fix really did waken things up, it wasn't Kruger's effect ;) PWs are still the same as reported and everything is just more snappy/smooth vs. chuggy. I think the pic I shared gives a good example of "a picture is worth 1,000 words". That pic of the PWs really explains stumbly, hesitancy, chuggy etc. for the Before and the feeling of Smooth, responsive, consistent really shows in the After part of the pic.

After the various tuning approaches I've taken I decided to stick w/ the STFT only. Every time I used just the STFT, things get dialed in fast. Then I'd move to the mix of LTFT, STFT, Fuel Error in various approaches and every time it'd be a downward slope where my performance would regress. I figured that'd polish everything off and maybe it could but so far tuning w/ strictly STFT has not failed me and has only given positive results/performance increase and/or stability/smooth transitions from cell to cell across the MAF table.

So now I got all that working great! I've looked up a lot about tuning the injector slopes and break points but it seems it may just really be one or the other. I saw a chat between Decipha and Clint from EA/BE and I think they concluded it may be just one or the other. Maybe for super fine tuning but you can perfect one, then you adjust the other and now both need readjusting. That's the jist I gather so I'm thinking I shouldn't touch my injector stuff except maybe the breakpoint but even then not sure..... They new Bosch 42lbs so all the data is there and they have proven history of reliability so I think I'm good to move on and ignore the injector specific tuning and use the MAF table to tune fueling to make any changes I'd hope to achieve by adjusting the injectors. Also the MAF table is much higher resolution. I'm thinkin the only reason I'd want to tune the injectors is to say set em super weak for a daily commute, and maybe have a point where the lead foot kicks in and invokes the High Slope.... But it already does that and pretty much right when I'd want it to :D

MFA (Managed Fuel Air) & DFSO (Decel Fuel Shut Off)!!!!! Aight so this stuff is pretty slick! I have some great terrain to test this on where I live cuz I have some hills, mountains, and flat long open roads all within a few miles. I've got less than 24 hours playin with these features but WOW! I adjusted my Min RPMs/Hysts since I have 5.13 gears and on 35" tires so my RPM ranges are a bit different. Regardless messin around with the various settings to get a feel for how it works and looks like Decipha has some solid values defined (big shocker :D ) for these features once you enable it. I read thru the various chats on eectuning where Decipha, cgrey and others delved into these features too which was really good insight.

The DFSO works well goin down a lengthy hill and 0.00 PW. Even on a flat street with a lengthy decel DFSO kicks in and PW goes to 0.00. MFA kicks in frequently (expected w/ the config) and it causes no issues. The tip in/tip out is very smooth and to go from super fuel saver mode while cruising to balls out full throttle is at the speed you can mash the pedal and damn near seemless. You wouldn't notice it unless you knew what was happening, especially watching the logs. Pull that laptop out and have someone else drive it and they would have no idea you went from super fuel saver mode to balls out beast mode.

Super awesome features and I'm pretty sure I'll be hitting double digit MPG stats ( I need to connect the speedometer now... ) :D
A 347 stroker, AFR 165cc heads, AND 42 lbs injectors in a heavy ass Bronco getting double digit MPGs and has the ability to smoke most cars in a run :D This is impressive :) <3

[entity-unknown]

Also here's how I adjusted the MFA Lambse adder. From my reading this looks safe and proper for the higher load to have a leaner condition than the lower load. I saw Decipha sayin you can get to 18-20% lean so I didn't go that extreme yet till I get more time/comfort with how this all works out.

I have no idea what a knock feels/sounds like and the video I watched didn't help since it sounds like a quiet tick like an exhaust leak which I could never heard while driving.... :\ If someone wants to school me on how to identify a knock, I'll take the advice ;)