TuNiN n00b Exp -Cpl n00b ?s

[entity-unknown]

I know you can't do LAMBDA w/ the narrow band (I've read lots of yours posts too including this one https://eectuning.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=18470 ;) ) I just went with the name on the Monitors but I see now that's just the measuring units. I did set +5% earlier and that seemed a bit better but not totally sure since I wasn't sure which field to be basing on. I'll try 8% next test and see how it works out.

So I gather the Fuel_Error2 being @ ~0.8 (ideally I want 1 ) and LAMBSE1 being @ ~1.2 (goal is 1 again) is where I should be watching?
When I go to match the wideband to the LAMBSE, I should use LAMBSE1 as my target value too right?

[decipha]

use the histogram i.e. history tables it does everything for you

you need lambse 1 and lambse2 as they both are controlling fuel

if you have hego2 disabled then it will equal lambse1 so it wont matter itll be the same regardless

[entity-unknown]

Cool deal thank you! I only have one o2 sensor on the passenger and that's all this Bronco ever had which seems standard at least on the trucks. Seems like the car gens typically had 2 as I search more but trucks got the last of any of that stuff so makes sense. I see I still have the factory 87 EFI Ford Bronco harness with a breakout board in between the PCM connector and the PCM which gives power for things like the ECU and MAF. It's a Ford truck specific EFI swap kit from back in the 90s so def discontinued. I still have the MAP sensor hooked up, prob just wasting voltage, and another connector (Ford standard connector not the o2 style) that's unused so maybe I'll consider converting one of those to another o2 line for the driver side... I'll have to see if there's an advantage to adding a MAP calculation one day :D

[entity-unknown]

Found I had an injector pulse wire that wasn't working. The intake path for that cylinder was bone dry, and so was the spark plug. I noticed that before the new engine too. Fixed that and also upped to the 42lbs Green Bosch's. I started w/ the base A9L2 Bin, used the patch to apply the 42Lbs injectors from Decipha, updated my CID, and this last test run went great!

Things seem to be in order overall but I do have some odd idle and random surge issues. Sounds like I have an exhaust leak so I'll check that out tomorrow. I still have to edit the function relative to the DASHPOT/isdc which I'll do after I take care of the exhaust.

There's some things to fine tune but all in all I could almost say just as is, this is what I needed to have a running engine and couldn't do it w/ the stock PCM/EEC code w/ the 347 stroker and the 30lbs/42lbs injectors. Awesomesauce!

[decipha]

that looks horrible you definitely need to dial the maf in

you forgot to clear kams anytime you make fuel changes, you still have some old bad kams in there

when swapping injectors don't forget to update all the SP** parameters and you also need to adjust the cranking pw for injector changes too

your iscdc is maxed at idle. You need to open the throttle stop at least 1.5 full turns to give her more air to idle correctly.

[entity-unknown]

Thank you for ACKing she's a she ;) :D
I adjusted the throttle stop screw as you said. I originally set it so it barely runs per dox is more relative to normal temps not 110*+ AZ temps.

What values are you looking at in the logs for:
MAF -
iscdc -
KAM -

I thought loading a Bin would clear the KAM? Either way I disconnected the battery for a few hours and created a specific Bin w/ the Z_KAMCLR patch applied. I also adjusted the fuel pump prime time to 1.5 seconds so I can tell it's this Bin that's loaded. Loaded that up w/ key off, verified load, turned key on for a few seconds, key off, load my real Bin, and proceeded.

I used your 42lb Injector profile which said in the comments I just need to edit SARCHG, MAF, and cranking PW after. SARCHG is done, PW looked good enough since it fires up in less than 1 second, and MAF I just went with what the 42lb profile loaded since it was exactly what I was going to load for my start point (80mm Lightning MAF Transfer Table).
It only had about 1 run for 10 minutes / 2 miles on this tune and injectors, and just over 1 hour / 7ish miles total run time with the new engine so I know I've got more to do ;)

Today I took care of the exhaust leaks, but sounds like I may have one more. The O2 sensor was a bit loose too but that's taken care of now. It's 115*+ out right now and I took her on a 6 mile venture and she performed a lot better! A lil more oomf on pickup than the 302 HO had so def goin in the right direction!

I'd be satisfied enough to run it as is but I see plenty more tuning opportunity so I'll keep tunin :D

Thank you again :)

[entity-unknown]

And yes I'll fix the exhaust leak(s) i.e. 100% functioning mechanical system before I do any real tuning otherwise it'd be wasted effort. A baseline for a functioning system was necessary too tho ;)

[entity-unknown]

I've been fine tuning the MAF table to really get that solid before I start workin on other stuff. My idle gets to about 1.1k after a run with my base set at 688. It was down there for a few tunes but I'm not really worried about that right now. I'll circle back there. Been working on hard pulls @ 75-100% throttle, with casual driving and making small adjustments here and there. She's one fast Bronco now and the best part is I've got so much more potential :D

One of the best tuning tips I could offer in less than 1 week's learning from 0-60 / nothin to somethin, is blatant scale adjustments i.e. say about a 1/3 to 1/4 section of MAF Transfer Table when starting. I'd suggest doing about 10% adjustments Up & Down and do a drive after clearing KAMs, and driving a few miles. Just feel it out with the throttle, come back, read the logs, then adjust more. Def start with the lower end, and it'll run like crap but you can see the differences in the logs. Then you can see where you need to add/subtract, make your change, then rinse repeat.
Once you've got about 5-10% difference in fuel adjustments, then work on the next segment, because you can NOT tune the upper of the transfer table, unless you the lowers are tuned well enough because it has to lead into those numbers for the calculations to smooth things out.

If you try to tune say the mid to uppers first, you'll never really get it right and it WILL be frustrating/time consuming (Daily driver w/ a balls out option in the same tune consideration). Once that's smooth, the transition to the uppers will be smoother, and the tuning will be a lot faster, and more so possible ;) It's kind of like unlocking the next level each time. Once you smooth things out from the lower to the WOT, then go back to the beginning and start over. Get that MAF spot on. THEN start workin on all those other features :) OH AND LOG EVERYTHING WITH DETAILED NOTES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ;)

When tuning MAF, I've found AD counts are way easier to work with than voltage. Thank you Decipha for making a MAF table that adjusts both i.e. if you adjust the Voltage table, the AD Count table, automatically takes your new changes so you can adjust by voltage or AD Counts. I prefer AD Counts because I like whole numbers 0-1023 vs. 0.00-5.00 or 0.00-5.12. The 0-5.00-5.12 is a real problem in itself so the AD Counts is just easier and more accurate. 2.52 = 700Kg/Hr OR 400 = 700Kg/Hr; fake numbers but you do the math on which is easier ;)

The last tip is HP/TQ does NOT matter. That's show and tell from antiquated numbers as is but it's a fair reference. Ignore all that when tuning because it creates false hope, and distraction. Just focus on nailing that fuel correction/lambse to very equal with a lil lean at idle/cruise, and a lil rich at hard runs/WOT. Get that dialed in then once you have one of the most critical elements dialed in everything else you tune will adjust evenly. Save it as your base tune Bin, and have then start havin some real fun (if you want) ;)

I'll work on building a separate thread to track the tuning stuff and share the link but with a baseline, a few days of experience and learning how the values line up to functionality/performance, you can go from a normal stock, to just WOW AND be even more fuel efficient ;)

The Quarter Horse (Craig Moates), TunerPro RT(Mark Mansur), and the A9L2 EEC Bin/Defs (Michael Decipha Ponthieux) (If that's your real middle name, you were a born hacker ;) ) are by far the best solution for what I need. Absolutely wonderful <3
Seriously one of I'd say 3 of the best things I've ever done for this Bronco in over 20+ years <3

No log today, but here's a screen shot of a very solid pull, Lambse's are very stable, and with some more tuning, it'll be even better :D
Also I've included one of the most current Bins where things are pretty solid in case say you followed and are curious to compare them ;)
What's been adjusted:
42Lbs Fuel Injector Patch by Decipha applied
MAF Transfer Table
FN022 - Fuel Scaler for ACT to ECT changed 180 to 170 / Why? I run a 180* Robertshaw thermostat and a FlowKooler, and I can't get the engine above 178* even in 115* AZ summer temps. I understand a lot more now why a 180-185 thermostat was recommended by the PO since he knew a lot about the EFI; Ford Tech Mustang/Bronco enthusiast)
SARCHG Engine CID - 346.98 (347 but I see even stock cuts .02 off the listed CID)
I think that's it...

[decipha]

how can you dial in the maf with those maf points?

[entity-unknown]

I'm not understanding your question or more so what you're trying to imply I'm doing wrong. The MAF curve is a curve. When looking at the Monitor tab, I'm mostly watching the Fuel Error and Spk_Lambse_Calc. The closer I keep those to 1.00, the better the engine runs, and the better acceleration I have. I'm "dialing in" those values by adjusting the MAF table. I'm watching the AD Counts for MAF, and when the white or dark blue line (fuel error and spk_lambse) go above or below 1.00, around 0.20 or more, then I adjust the respective area in the MAF counts. So say above 500 AD Counts, I'm running rich, I adjust the MAF table lower for 500+. If it's running lean, I increase the MAF table. If say it's only in the 300-400 range I see the shift, I only adjust the 300-400 range.

So what am I doing incorrectly?