EFIDynoTuning

by **RIKIL** » Tue Aug 14, 2018 5:32 pm

Would you happen to know the part number for the neutral safety switch (mlps) at something like pep boys or autozone? I would like to buy this in town instead of having it shipped to me but I can't cross reference any of the part numbers I find.

by **decipha** » Tue Aug 14, 2018 7:52 pm

not off hand just throw out an application and have them pull it up

by **RIKIL** » Tue Aug 14, 2018 8:20 pm

Thanks, I was going to try that.. And the more I think about it, if they don't have it, I'll order it and it'll be here before I can drive the truck. Since this is a new transmission, and my first, conversion, it'll take me more than just a few hours to get up and going. I guess it's not a big deal

by **decipha** » Tue Aug 14, 2018 8:40 pm

there two types of mlps, the early ones which have a 0-5v analog output for all gears

and the "digital" 1998+ mlps which has multiple switches in it

the mlps on all fords is the same for the early ones and the later ones

by **RIKIL** » Tue Aug 14, 2018 8:46 pm

Ok, the ones I am watching on ebay specifically state for 92-97. The trans is coming with the connection for the senoid pack for the same years so I thought I'd keep it the samw5

by **RIKIL** » Wed Aug 15, 2018 5:15 pm

HHHHHHHHHoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo my fucking shit my trans is here and............................(wait for it).............I can't use it

I bought an adapter from advanced adapters so I could connect this trans to my transfer case. I called them and asked for what I needed. They sold me a part for a 1350 transfer case (these are for a Ranger). I have a 1356 case. Oh my! So I called them and they are researching...trying to find out who I talked to. If they don't find out by tomorrow I can tell them who and when and even send them the recording of my call.

by **RIKIL** » Thu Aug 16, 2018 5:14 pm

OMG, if this isn't the motherfucking saga...

When I started this project I called two places that I found on line that would build and ship me a 4r70w. The first place I called, don't remember the name, said that yes I can get a 4r but to mate it to a borg warner 1356 transfer case I need an adapter kit from advance adapters in Downy, CA. The second place I called, and this is the place I ordered the transmission from, also advised me I need an adapter from advance adapters to make this work. I called advance adapters in CA and talked to a person who seemed to understand my problem. The problem is that their website advertises an adapter kit for a borg warner 1350 transfer case. These are for a ford ranger. In my 92 F150 came a borg warner 1356 transfer case. I called them to see if the 1350 would work with my 1356. The guy I talked to put me on hold to talk to a technician and came back to tell the me part for the 1350 would work for my 1356.

I ordered the suggested parts. I received the transmission and the back of the trans didn't fit to the transfer case.

So I called the place that sent me the trans and asked them if a 4r70w build with a stock 4x4 adapter on the back would mate to a 1356, like I have. They said no, I need the advance adapter 1350 kit to make that work. After a few min of discussion and me asking targeted questions, the same person that I was talking to said 'this trans came in a 95-96 bronco and that was the AOD trans, so that shoudl fit your borg warner 1356, it seems it has a 31 spline output shaft whic his compatible.' Seems the two prominent trans builders didn't know this. I called two places that build a lot of 4r70ws and both said I could not mate a 4r to a BW1356 without an adapter and that pointed me to advance adapters where they also gave me the wrong info telling me that their 1350 kit would work with a 1356.

Right now I am waiting for a call from advance adapters, they have someone looking into this. They told me they record their phone calls, and so do I on my smartphone. I deleted all my archived calls a couple of weeks ago and couldn't find the recording of when I called advance adapters to ask their advice. After looking more in my app, I found the recorded call in my recycle bin and restored it. That call verified that I asked about the 1356 and not 1350.

At the very least I will need to ship the trans from CO back to FL where they will build me a 4r with the 4x option tha thas the 31 spline output shaft and will mate to a 1356.

"the saga continues...Wutang...Wutang..."

by **RIKIL** » Fri Aug 17, 2018 12:04 pm

Something is really not right about this flexplate - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pma- ... /make/ford

I can't even get it to bolt to the back of my crank using all bolts. Could not get all the holes to line up. Says it is for a 351w. I mounted it using 3 of the 6 bolts, just wanted to start the motor. As soon as I did I noticed the engine vibrating a lot. Even thought there were only 3 bolts, I couldn't shake the flexplate so it seemed to be on OK. Started the motor again and the same thing. So I put back on the old flexplate and it ran fine, warmed it up to 190F.

by **RIKIL** » Fri Aug 17, 2018 2:54 pm

forget the comment I said about the flexplate, it is the right one, I just didn't have it on right.

by **decipha** » Fri Aug 17, 2018 5:32 pm

yea one bolt is off centered so it bolts on one way to locate the balance weight correctly

by **RIKIL** » Sat Aug 18, 2018 5:35 pm

So far things are coming along pretty good. I have two questions:

1. For the TCC solenoid that I switched out...would I be able to leave the 10ohm solenoid in the trans and put a resistor on the wire coming out of the trans for the TCC? I realize this really isn't the best since I already have the 1 ohm solenoid but the trans has a 2 year warranty and if something is going to fail, I'd rather it be their parts. I know I could switch it out if I had a problem and had to send it back to them but just trying to modify the trans as little as possible.

2. I was told the 4r came in a 95 Bronco and I have been looking on the internet for images of the shifter linkage (not 4x4, regular drive gear linkage). For the E4 I have a plate the shifter cable would mount in and that plate would mount to the trans but it doesn't looks like mine will work at all. I also need to know how the linkage attaches to the trans. The E4 had a lever that mounted on the trans at the MLPS and pointed up but from some of the pics I saw for the 4r the lever was down and a little different shape, but again, I am not sure if those were for a Bronco or just what.

by **decipha** » Sat Aug 18, 2018 8:49 pm

1> you should be able to, it won't control the lock up correctly during slip but should lock acceptably when hardlocked

2> the e4, 4r, aod, aode, all have the exact same shift lever setup. On the trans the lever itself can be flipped around internally from the bottom to the top.

by **RIKIL** » Sun Aug 19, 2018 6:38 pm

Thanks. I will use the 1 ohm solenoid.

My sifter cable bracket is definitely different, in the pic my E4OD bracket is on top, what I got from u-pull-and-pay today is on the bottom.

I also found out what the large hole on the back of the driver's side is for...the VSS. Right now my VSS is in my rear diff. Do I even need to change it (install a VSS in the trans and move the wires)? I found it is the same part number. If not I will just put a VSS in there to plug the hole and leave the wires at the rear diff.

by **decipha** » Mon Aug 20, 2018 12:20 am

oh yeah the cable bracket itself is vehicle specific but the linkage is the all the same

no you do not need the vss on the back of the trans you can keep your vss in the rear dif so your cluster reads correctly

by **RIKIL** » Fri Aug 31, 2018 10:43 am

I got the flexplate drilled out with holes to fit the converter. I put the flexplate and converter together and I noticed with the flexplate being thicker than the previous, the nut goes down only far enough for a little of the stud threads to come out the top. I usually put a lock washer on there with nylock nuts but I don't think I will have room for the washer. OK to just use those nuts?

by **decipha** » Fri Aug 31, 2018 3:03 pm

as long as u didnt make the holes abnormally large where it can slip through it will be fine

iirc the nuts should be shouldered

by **RIKIL** » Sat Sep 08, 2018 9:29 pm

Trans will be here Thursday and assuming all is correct this time and I can actually install it...what is the first step with the tune after I am ready to drive? I am all ready to go with exception of the drive shafts. I need to measure for those but after talking to the shop that will do the work, it will only take 1 day. So I am thinking I will be ready to go the Tuesday after I receive the trans if all goes well during install. Very excited about this and hope it works out as planned.

by **decipha** » Sun Sep 09, 2018 7:47 am

assuming all is the same from your 2016 tune i posted it with the 4r70w enabled in your thread

viewtopic.php?f=86&t=1279&p=38532#p38532

by **RIKIL** » Sat Sep 15, 2018 7:08 pm

OK, getting closer now and also excited.

Trans is in. Since I have a (Rancho) lift, the place were I need to mount the rear support is blocked where the tortion bar for the lift mounts to the frame. I did some looking around the area on the frame and I see two holes I can use to mount a support. I just need to make it. I think just this and getting the drive shafts modified is all that is in my way now.

For reference, the transmission speed sensor is Borg Warner SN7143. The shifter cable is 5 inches shorter, have not got that part yet. There was one other thing that was different but can't remember it now.

by **RIKIL** » Thu May 30, 2019 8:10 pm

Got the trans back today and went to put back in the TCC solenoid you told me to get, I noticed the clip on the clip on the connector was broken so the connector won't stay on very well by its own. So, as you can see in the pic, I was thinking of using a zip tie to secure it and while I think the zip tie would not get d by the fluid, I was worried about the temp of the trans getting warm enough to melt the zip tie. Was hesitant about using metal there. Any suggestions? Maybe some black RTV?

Also, would you happen to know if the FM 69H (I think the H is just for high-stall) will fit my flexplate? I had bought the flexplate you suggested and had to drill new holes for the other torque converter.

by **decipha** » Thu May 30, 2019 8:52 pm

its been a while since ive seen a 4r with wires in it lol. I always convert them to the boards.

electrical zip ties are good for 250 degrees if you have some

if your in a bind take a paperclip and wrap it in there instead

by **RIKIL** » Thu Aug 01, 2019 9:02 pm

Hey man, hope things are good with you. I have had my new trans installed for almost 400 miles and I have really put it to the test so far. Driving around with a big load in the back and really getting on the throttle. So far so good. But have some questions. And really happy with the idle at a stop when engine fully warm, tune seems much more stable with this new trans. I think it sounds weird but it is a fact. Owned this truck for 23 years.

The torque converter you suggested I buy, I thought was better than what I have now (FM69H). When I was sent the last replacement trans, I was also sent a new torque converter, the 69H. I wanted to use the 69H so if the the trans has problems like it did in the past, I can tell the company I didn't change any parts (except the TCC solenoid - which I don't tell them about). I looked up the specs and the stall speed is the only difference I can see. What they sent me is this - https://www.transdepot.net/AODE-4R70W-T ... p_612.html

Are there any other differences other than stall speed that are a factor in my torque converter (69H) and the FM70? I notice the trice is not as 'snappy' off the line like it was when I had the FM70 installed previously.

Another issue is about hot starts. I few days ago it was in the mid 90's and I left work to go to lunch. Drove a few miles and heated up the motor. I sat at lunch for about 45 min and I think it was so warm the truck was a little hard to start. Not major but I had to keep the starter turning for an additional 5 seconds or so. If I got a log when this happens, do you think something in the tune can be adjusted for this?

And, just because of the hot weather now, I am going to adjust my tune so the cooling fans come on a little sooner and stay on a bit longer. My drive is only 1.2 miles to work so I need to wait until the weekends when I drive longer to adjust this.

by **decipha** » Fri Aug 02, 2019 3:39 am

yea np, post the log in your thread

im not sure about that converter to give a comparison. The bolt pattern should be smaller on the perfirmance one i.e. 11.5" vs 10.625" or something along those lines

by **RIKIL** » Fri Aug 02, 2019 6:06 pm

OK, will post a log when it gets warm enough to cause the problem

As for the converter, after about 1000 miles I might just get the 70 and install it and see what happens.

by **RIKIL** » Tue Aug 20, 2019 5:41 pm

Still having the problem with third gear in the trans, but it's a little different. I think it is something about my setup and I think it has to do with pressure. I went looking around under the truck and I noticed my trans fluid lines are just about even with my catalytic converter. And I see some heat marks so I am thinking it is heating the fluid really hot when both the trans and catalytic converter are hot. The slipping starts after 20-30 min.

This trans is shorter than my last, and that my be why the lines and converter are next to each other. Going to move the lines around and maybe create a heat shield. May even look into moving the catalytic converter.

If that doesn't solve it then I'll install both temp and pressure gauges

by **decipha** » Mon Aug 10, 2020 12:00 am

That makes sense. Trans don't like heat.

by **RIKIL** » Mon Aug 24, 2020 10:50 pm

OK, I'm going to ask a question that I think I know the answer to but will ask anyway :is there anything in the tune or definition files that can be changed to get the 4r70w to work for me? I know you had it working for you but it's not working for me.

What I am seeing now is the solenoid 1 and 2 are on (have +12 volts) when in park/drive when I'd only expect to see solenoid 1 to be on for first gear. After about 7 miles of driving none of the solenoids go on and the transmission won't change from second to third gear.

My only recourse is to buy a transmission controller to send the proper signals to the transmission for shifting.

by **decipha** » Tue Aug 25, 2020 6:40 pm

it sounda like your missing that mystery box behind the glove box that controls the trans

by **RIKIL** » Tue Aug 25, 2020 8:36 pm

I'm fully willing to go on a mystery hunt for this box. If you have any info, such as a picture or part number or anything else, that'd be helpful. Even in I can find this thing, I'm not even sure how to wire it up.

by **decipha** » Wed Aug 26, 2020 10:12 am

Nor am I. I could never find any info on it myself. LMK what you figure out.

by **RIKIL** » Sun Sep 06, 2020 5:20 pm

Do you know what the line pressure for my 4r70w should be, is that something that's defined in the tune? I installed a pressure gauge in line today. After I started the truck for about 45 seconds, I saw the pressure go from 0 to 50 psi. I'm sure it's a little low on fluid, which is why I didn't drive it yet.

by **decipha** » Sun Sep 06, 2020 6:00 pm

The actual line tap is going to be different than tv pressure. I'm not sure what it should read as its been years since I've actually had a gauge on one.

by **RIKIL** » Sat Nov 14, 2020 12:51 pm

Hey man, I really do like the new look of the front page of your website, very cool.

So what I did today was verify that each pin from the ecu matched up to the trans connector based on this diagram https://images.app.goo.gl/yUBEfGKiQ5rezGUZ7

Everything matched except the TFT. I looked at the page you have for the cbaza reference and it says this is pin 49, but I have mine on pin 48. I wanted to check with you to see what you think I should do, change this to pin 49? I could have very well effed this up

by **decipha** » Sat Nov 14, 2020 1:02 pm

my pins are correct

is your tot not reading correctly?

by **RIKIL** » Sat Nov 14, 2020 1:21 pm

decipha wrote:my pins are correct

is your tot not reading correctly?

I haven't had the truck running in months, all the wires for the transmission have been disconnected. So today I verified from the ecu to the trans and this was the one issue that I found.

Would I be safe to leave that disconnected just to start to motor? I could look at that later, the main thing is that I verified the wires and I want to see how the transmission acts. I think there might have been a short that was causing me to lose third gear.

by **decipha** » Sat Nov 14, 2020 1:45 pm

tot being faulty would cause pressure to be off

by **RIKIL** » Mon Nov 30, 2020 9:02 pm

If mistakenly installed a high resistance tcc solenoid, could that cause my shifting problems or would I notice issues just as I start to drive

by **decipha** » Mon Nov 30, 2020 9:39 pm

no the tcc isnt used for shifting just to lock the converter. Would run fine just the converter wouldnt lock.

by **RIKIL** » Sun Dec 27, 2020 9:34 pm

What role does the OSS play for my U4P0? I found this was not connected and I am wondering if it may play a part in me losing third gear after about 7 miles. I am going to reconnect it but do you think this could be my problem? Might be a week or two before I can get this reconnected.

by **decipha** » Mon Dec 28, 2020 11:19 am

its for shift speed it without it youll shift on vss

wouldnt cause 3rd gear loss thats mechanical