EFIDynoTuning Forum

You can turn off one of the factory o2 sensors and use that bung for the wideband.

Thanks!

I would insert the manufacturers injector data and leave it at that for now.

If youre handy with excel then i would use it to get your maf transfer data interpolated to get enough cells to work with and then dial it in from there.

Histograms in the dashboard will help you dial in your fuel.

throttle body whistling is caused from sharp edges in cheaper cast throttle bodies. you can take a dremel with a sanding drum, sandpaper or a file to smooth out the edges. It should help with the whistling.

BTW im not a pro tuner, just diy guy like yourself. Somebody may come along and debunk my analysts of your situation.

What changes were made to the new update?

Is it possible for something in the tune controlling fuel pressure to kill a new pump or did i just get a bad pump?

Very good information!

Excuse my ignorance but what does the LWFM table do?

UPDATE: It was the fuel pump. Apparently a new fuel pump and assembly from the auto parts stores are not to be trusted.

Decipha i would love to be fly on the wall while you go through the tuning process on some these cars. I bet that would very fascinating to watch. And very informative!

I have verified pressure with a mechanical gauge. As far as the frps goes i was checking it just out of lack of knowledge for how these returnless systems work. Starting with the easiest and working toward the hardest. The fpdm is a used one i got from a friend because this car was converted to terminator fuel system at one point and the module was removed. So there is a chance that something could going with the module or wiring to the module. Ill double check the wiring to fpdm and grounds as well. Ive heard of people having to replace the plastic lines on the fuel pump to the hat with good rubber hose. That may be something else i do. I did notice the other day while troubleshooting that i lost all fuel pressure and the car died. i pulled over and cycled the key multiple times and the pressure would not come up and the pump had a deeper tone. then all of sudden the pump changed tones and the pressure came up to 40psi and the car started. i drove it home and then the next day drove it again and at light throttle the car ran good but as soon as i put my foot in it the pressure dropped immediately. So im leaning toward pump or pump assembly. I do have access to a known good fpdm so i may throw it on there just see if it helps. I have a feeling the tank will have back out. I also need to research how the returnless systems work.