EFIDynoTuning Forum

This afternoon after clipping the 12 pin newer style DTRS transmission connector off of the end of the connector, I see the YE/BK wire #1144 and I see that a wire will need to be added or repurposed. I'm set up with a list of all of the transmission related wires as well as the 12 pi connector. In the morning on a fresh coffee head, I will visually check each wire at the transmission and at the PCM end of the harness. It shouldn't be difficult to deal with because at least 5 are in there original spots on the 104. C-111 I think it is called will need some changes too.

Scanmatik 2 Pro does write. I've done it two times. It does have the 19v pull up. When I first purchased it and opened this users manual I said out loud "oh SH*T".
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0556/ ... 1661901337
The Scanmatik 2 Pro still cost as much as the Drewtech Mongoose for Ford

israelvzla It works well. Could I get bin file copies of your 1998 and 2001 Mustangs. Are they both V-8? Thanks

2 weeks ago, I got off to a good start on the wiring harness before the label maker ran out of tape late last weekend. It was several days before I got back to work on it. It took some time to figure out where I was on it. The most logical approach that I came up with was work from the back to the front. I started with the VSS. There will be some kind of difference between my '97 Merc that reads the speed off of the transmission and the "99 Crown Vic reads the speed off of the differential. I would imagine a tuning adjustment will need to happen as it has to do with this.
I'm eliminating the rear O2 sensors. That freed up 4 wires that I used to add 4 more coil driver circuits. I have 95% of the 104 pin connector sorted and rearranged. There were close to 30 wires to move. Only one ground wire had to be lengthened in order to be moved. I'm a bit confused about the transmission wires and I appear to be missing one. I have been through the charts in the books and here is what I have for the 4R70W.
* 97MM pin #1 Shift Solenoid #2 moves to 99CV #11
* 97MM pin #27 Shift Solenoid #1 moves to 99CV #6
* #29 Transmission Control Switch stays the same
* #37 Transmission Fluid Temperature stays the same
* #54 Torque Converter Solenoid stays the same
* #64 Transmission Rage Sensor input stays the same
* #81 Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) the same
Here is a wire that I'm unable to find on the 97MM. The 99CV 104 pin chart has a pin #34 wire num 1144 Y/B wire that is missing on the 97MM chart.
Charts below. After the pictures will be the short list of odd, loose pin wires.
1997 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0 104 pin chart. 1999 Ford Crown Victoria 104 pin chart. The following wires are loose at the 104 pin connector and i'm not sure where they go. The EGR wire will get repurposed for the added wideband sensor? This is kind of a question and I'm not sure how to do this.
* A 97MM wire #30 solid green Octane adjust shortening bar adjust. Not seeing a spot for it on the 99CV PCM.
* A 97MM #63 O/Y EGR/EVP I'm not finding a spot for it.
I'm about bug eyed and need to take a break for a bit. I'm going to go clip the park/neutral range switch and connector off of the 99CV harness. There is an upgrade to the later style transmission wiring that has to happen too. I hope this will help me back trace the wire 1144 Y/B wire issue.
Any extra eyeballs would be appreciated.

One more "Godzilla" coil question. What is the pitch of the thread of the M5 bolt? I FINALLY got my c-n-p brackets.

Thanks d. Good pic.

I too would say that the red wire is positive however it is the coil pins that I want to know which is which.With the coil turned up in its mounting position, is the left pin positive or the right pin?

Well the Ebay user that I purchased the FI connectors from is selling a product that doesn't fit something that they say it will. I found a second issue with the FI connectors. No little curve to allow the connector to slide down enough to click or clip on to it. (cheap s*@t) I worked through the weekend unwrapping the harness and had planned on soldering in the 1999 style FI connectors but no. I have more on the way.
I will have a few pins with short wires available, from the deletion of the rear O2 sensors, for the addition of 4 more coil drivers. The 1997 MM harness only has 4 for the wasted spark way of doing things. So far I haven't found any damaged wires as it relates to the coil power, trigger wires etc.
I'm having to modify it a bit to go from the 3 wire camshaft position to the 2 wire arrangement. There is a gray/red stripe (signal return) wire right beside the old Cam pos sen wires, so this is an easy upgrade. It's hard to see in the picture but the gray/red stripe wire is to thr right of the green one. If anyone has a 2020 Godzilla 7.3 coil pinout that I could get a copy of or has a 2020 F250 7.3 "Godzilla" powered truck that could take a clear picture for me, Email it to my work where I'm at Mon-Fri. Thanks. alatennmustang@att.net (ATPCR)

I just re-read your thread to see how to properly hook up the Godzilla coils. I do see where you side that you had to swap the wiring on the coils. Would you, dleach1407 or someone have a pic of the coils showing how to wire it? Thanks.

Late last Friday I glued the timing cover gasket to the cover and let it sit overnight. Saturday morning I trimmed all of the excess gasket material from around the edges of the timing cover.
This past week, several parts arrived and some of them just as I need them. I purchased an aussie 5.0 oil pressure fitting to be able to add an old (real) oil pressure gauge and still keep the electric sender. I only know this about the Explorers and not other Fords of this era, but it is not a variable pressure switch. If it is working, it shows half on the gauge. Really no better than a light that goes off if you have pressure.
I installed the timing cover and used a 2" PVC fitting to tap in the seal with. I installed several other parts before moving on to removing the powertrain control harness. The old oil heat exchanger was modified to accept the standard thread filters. I have an FL-299 installed. It's almost 2" longer than the FL1A. This Saturday I have already hit a snag on the wiring. I'm changing the type of fuel injector connectors for the 1999 style. The pigtails seem to be swapped. I would like to know for sure before soldering and heat shrinking these wires. The left connector is the 1999 CV harness fuel injector connector and the right side is the cheap replacement. The red wire is backwards.