EFIDynoTuning Forum

No, its not in the write up fn074 is dialed in to get mapope where its reasonable. I prefer to dial it in so mapope has more resolution so you have finer control. A speed density write up is on my to do list.

She looked excellent. This should make her pretty much dialed in other than wot. Go ahead and shoot back one quick wot pull in 1st so we can dial in the top of the ve table.

LMK if the converter locks up now back to normal.

which connector pin # are you using?

You had fn825a the ect dsdrpm adder locking out base idle control by adding idle rpm even at operating temp.
fn820b was multiplying the iscdc based on load. Not ideal at all when you can dial it in properly.-I see your using pin 21 the iac for your fan code?
I take it you don't have an iac ?

why is your spark so retarded down low? It looks to be over-advanced at high map low rpm as well.

why did you tack the fan code on to the logging patch?

You have wot kams referencing another cell leaning out wot.

Your mapope isn't dialed in which means your ve table is skewed. You also have 10 lbs set to 0 in' reference in the fn074a mapope airmass function which isn't right.

It looks like your injector offset is too low which is causing your crank PW to be excessive as well as skewing the VE table making it non linear.

This is the best I could come up with. She probably won't be too happy til she drops in to closed loop. She's forced in to closed loop at wot so don't do any towing or wot pulls.

added 2 step code, i'm sure a ton other stuff in the past 3 years

if pullin is exceeded it will

make a new thread for your truck with vehicle details and post your tune, ill take a gander and see if we can get it figured

No you definitely can't change the trans strategy while driving

what are you trying to do exactly?

what all are your fueling needs? what all are you doing to this engine and plan for down the road?

if its just a stocker for now a simple 190lph pump would more than suffice.

best bet is to keep the canister purge but its not necessary, its nice though

thermactor doesn't matter as its not important

Wow, I used to buy the cheap $30 ebay china made oem replacement hats, drill out a hole and put an AN fitting on it. /done

Only the 1999 to 2010 were returnless.

2011 the mustang went back to return style or as they call is 'mechanical' returnless which means the regulator is just mounted in the tank.

Nope the 1999 explorer does not have a fuel rail pressure sensor since it is a return setup as well but again henry just simply put the regulator in the tank. You could do the same if you want to just run one line up front. All you need is a PPRV for any 99+ mustang but you'll have to modify that line to fit it regardless.

marauder valve body already has the 'j-mod' from the factory

there's three things for the shift to occur on time

first make sure the vehicle speed isn't too high, thats in the shift schedule function fn23s if its the 2-3 shift, if the wot tprel speed value is too high then its going to wait until that vehicle speed to make the shift regardless. You can verify by the shift gear commanded at the bottom right of the dashboard.

if its not commanding the shift then its never going to shift

shift pressure is fn23dytx_vs - dynamic epc 2-3 shift
the last two columns should be wot shift pressure. If you kick those up you will command more line pressure during the shift. That could make it shift faster but it will reach a point where it will make it shift harder and not necessarily faster that's when you know you've got too much.

then you have the tcc fill last
fnup2dly is the 2-3 shift tcc fill time, kicked up that value will command the shift sooner.

Post your tune file and a log of this missed shift and i can probably see whats going on exactly from the log.

Attached stock bins

you have to go through the code and determine yourself if its code or something else