EFIDynoTuning Forum

Pappacosworth wrote: ↑2021 Nov 03, 14:41 13726548 351w / H.O. order used

Was the previous cam / tune HO or non-HO firing order?

I swapped firing order, swapped plug wires around, but forgot to change the injector firing order in the tune and it certainly made a difference once I corrected the tune.

It seems to run OK, but load and perload can jump 5%-8% between data points due to the MAF being stable while the RPM data is fluctuating.
Keep in mind, as this is a bracket car, I'm looking for consistency, every little bit counts.

I hear ya on the new parts being bad too. I replaced the original worn distributor, that had an Echlin pickup in it, due to worn bushings. Like I said the new distributor acts the same. Maybe it's a pickup issue, I don't know what pick up is in the FD22.

I believe it was previously stated that the ford sensors were of the best quality, is that still the case?
Any difference between the Motorcraft DU-50 for sale everywhere and a E9TZ-12A112-A pickup straight from a dealer?

I also measured the teeth on the OE and Spectra distributer. The Spectra was out of spec by 5-6 thousandths, but it was consistent on every tooth. The OE was within spec, so I'll swap that to the new dizzy.

Distributor is pretty much new. Under 500 miles.
I changed the original for this same issue, so I should probably be looking elsewhere.
Unfortunately, class rules prohibit me from changing to EDIS.

Attached is a pic of how rough RPM is compared to the MAF signal.

I tried adding a ground from the distributer housing to the block but it made no improvement.
It appears to be jumping around enough to make perload and injector pulswidths inconsistent.

Is it possible to install a tach signal filter to smooth the signal to the ECU?

There is something funky going on with that data log...
I don't know if it has anything to do with the difference in bank fueling, but it could.

The log starts off strange to me. Fully warm, ATMR1 at 255 and no O2 sensor switching, LAMBSE at 1.000 and not trying, Kams at 1. Like fueling reset, but its already running and been running... Ultimately, they do start switching.

At the 2:00 minute mark in the log, both LAMBSE jump to 1.000. LAMBSE 1 is is most noticeable thought because its further off.

LAMBSE1 drops from 1.13 to 1.00 instantly... Kinda strange. Then it starts slowly creeping back up adjusting itself to where it was...

At 2:04, 4 seconds later, BAM... Both LAMBSE appear to instantly reset again to 1.000 again... This time its more obvious because they say at 1.000 for a few data points and then the ECU starts adjusting both of them in sync until HEGO2 starts switching.

It looks to me like something keeps partially resetting the ECU.

Could something in the tune be corrupt and causing this?
A bad capacitor or a bad ECU?

The targeted Lambse is either 1.00 in closed loop, or from a table in open loop.

The actual Lambse in closed loop will be what is required to make the O2 sensors switch between rich and lean, AKA short term fuel trim.

KAMRF is your long term fuel trim error, expressed as a multiplier.
It looks at your closed loop Lambse over time and says hey, lately, at a MAFV of 2.5v the Lambse isn't switching at 1.00, it's switching at 0.90, it's off by 10% lets correct that...

IIRC a KAMRF value below 1.00 means fuel is being removed.

A misfire can cause false O2 readings. Any possibility of a misfire on the rich bank?

Also as a quick check, make sure all the injectors are assigned to the proper O2 sensor for each bank.

Did you change rear gears?
Many people run into this problem when going to a higher rear gear ratio. I suppose it could happen with more power as well...
It's all about clutch fill time vs how fast your rpm is climbing.

IIRC there are a couple options to remedy.
1. Command the shift at a lower rpm so the clutch has more time to fill...
2. Enlarge a hole in the valve body separator plate to allow the intermediate clutch to fill more quickly.

Keep in mind, the 1-2 factory aluminum accumulator is known to wear out quickly on early transmissions, if yours is a 2003, it may have the bonded rubber already. If you're pulling the pan, it can be checked and or replaced with a bonded rubber replacement without dropping anything else.

I found the TCCoa forums (Thunderbird car club) has a wealth of information on AODE/4R70w mechanical function, issues, troubleshooting, rebuilding, and modifying. https://www.tccoa.com/forums/automatic- ... sions.990/

What controls initial RPM just after startup and its decay?

I think I adjusted it previously and now its a bit too much.

I remember a thread about it, but was in the old forum so I can't reference it, and looking at parameters in the difference tool isn't jogging my memory.

Looks like our setups are very similar.

I'm running a set of ported Windsor Sr. Aluminum heads with 2.02/ 1.60 on top of some old TRW domed pistons, 294/306 duration cam.
Reverse manual C4 with a Dynamic TCT converter that stalls around 4500, 4:10 gearing on 26" slicks, tubular control arms, single adjustable rears.

I'm not running the time I was aiming for, most likely from too big of a cam, but I picked up the short block, cam and lifters for $200... Fresh rebuild, never fired, had to try as-is for that price.

Last year I was pretty consistent down track with most of my variation happening in the 60, but it was predictable for the most part. Was running 12.80's @103, 1.75 60's, with a 180K stock bottom and home ported GT40 heads and intake.

This year, it's just been a basket case trying to get this new combo to work. Best of 12.48 @108, 1.80 60. I had been hoping to go low 12's, high 11's. Pretty disappointing seeing how I was almost there with factory heads and intake... Just the wrong combination of parts, but for the price, I had to try. At this point I'm done looking to go any quicker, I just need to find the consistency to be competitive.

I was running the base fuel table same as you, but I think I'll keep enriching it before launch for a few weeks and see if my 60's are more consistent.

I've previously tried going richer and leaner than .875, but I didn't see any difference in MPH so I just left it at .875. Maybe once I get the fuel dialed in throughout the whole pass, I'll lean it out a bit and see if consistency improves.