EFIDynoTuning Forum

What about the mongoose setup? Can I use that to flash the tune to the PCM? Can I use tunerpro bin file with that or do I need to use binary editor with it?

I appreciate that help. Fatten the top of the curve up a bit and cut or add fuel from there. I’m also wondering though… So the heated O2 sensors (upstream) have been moved further away from the combustion chambers. And they need heat to work properly. Is there an O2 heater function that can be modified to correct for this? Also, I imagine there may be a delay in fueling corrections as the closed loop has become bigger with that distance of the O2 sensors moved lower in the exhaust stream. But I’m a newbie so just trying to learn

mechanicalmatch wrote: ↑2022 Jul 30, 22:02 post your file here with information of what you used read (pcm flash, qh , etc...) with and what you want it to be converted to be used on (pcm flash, qh , etc...)and i will convert it for you.

I believe I will require assistance with this. I will be using a Moates QH Tunerpro RT BIN and presumably need a conversion to do a PCM flash thing. Currently waiting on hardware to arrive. I’m willing to pay to. Just a service technician but I do know the more we support each other the easier it is to help each other.

ATPCR wrote: ↑2023 Oct 17, 21:10 @red5.0fogger I purchased this package from Core tuning. The Moates wasn't available by itself.
CaptureMoatesQH&BE.PNG
When my QH arrived, the BE was taped to it.
I know my way around TunerPro a bit. I just wanting my BE dongle and software because I purchased it.

I can totally understand that. I am curious as to how this BE product works because I also recently made a purchase for another QH and the flash from core. I intend on flashing the best base tune I can put together and want an extra QH just in case. I should have listened to Decipha warning about Moates products not being available forever… I would be glad to help if I can

So I am finally uncorking the terrible factory exhaust system on my my marauder which has a 2.65 TVS blower. I’m installing long tube headers and a full 2.5 inch dual exhaust system. So, my question is… What “tuning” changes are congruent with this improved performance exhaust system? Obviously boost levels will drop because of the improvement in pumping efficiency. Is there a way to take advantage of this improvement in the tune? I’m trying to improve my understanding of the implications of this mechanical engine pumping improvement and how it relates to making more power when “tuning”. Thank you 👍

ATPCR wrote: ↑2023 Oct 19, 07:29 @m-barans. I may be mistaken, but from your vehicle information it sounds like you already have a Moates Quarterhorse and TunerPro RT?
~10 days ago, I contacted the Core Tuning people and asked if Moates QH and BE combo was still available. They said that they have a few left. I don't know if this means 3 or 4 or 96. I purchased the package and early this week the Moates device and BE arrived.

Thank you for the helpful info!

Thank you for your response! I’m wondering if you have any recommendations on purchasing PCMflash or any details on how it works… I’m interested in finding a solution to my problem and learning more about how these things work.

Ok. We have Roush software and Ford software and they can both use the VCM pass through device to flash calibrations onto PCMs. File types look different between them. Whipple emails bin files and we have flashed them. Conceptually I believe I am missing something. Are all the tuning software companies just tweaking the strategy so all other's interfaces are confused? What is needed to take a RZASA custom bin made in Tunerpro art so that it can be flashed? Also, is it recommended to purchase the BE flash and QH package? Looks like both pieces of hardware are becoming or have already become obsolete.

My current objectives are to

1: flash a great base tune on the car in case my QH fails me.

2: be able to continue adjusting cal and dialing in with the QH

So I have upgraded my fuel system to -8 lines and rails. Although I incorporated the factory PPRV in line from my aftermarket (coyote) fuel pump I am still seeing 100+ psi fuel pressure when keying to the on position. This is unsafe and also a mechanical issue preventing me from tuning start ups nicely. Does anyone have a recommendation on a replacement pressure relief valve that I can use in the fuel tank? I have thought about doing an external valve right outside of the tank but I feel like this just exacerbates the need for additional plumbing unnecessarily… I’m looking for some more experienced input please.

Thanks,
Mike

Well, I incorporated the PPRV so I’m guessing it just wasn’t effective enough as I’m seeing excessive fuel pressure during fuel pump prime time (which I believe is contributing to long crank/hard start conditions). I’m thinking this means I’m going to delete the factory PPRV and install an external pressure regulator close to the tank. I’m wondering if I should delete factory (likely comprised) cats first for tuning purposes, and then equip long tubes. Or should I go long tubes with “performance cats” and tune from there to start with? I’m also reassessing and wanting to get some improved cylinder head/valve train components (valves springs and seats) Are there any recommended vendors for this work for these “C type” heads? I know this is a lot of questioning and it shows my inexperience with building a “steet machine” but I’m grateful for access to this forum and it’s knowledgeable members. Please share your thoughts fellow members. I’m wanting to learn more and I value all of your feedback.