EFIDynoTuning Forum

pin 29 TCS=Overdrive switch? Not sure I need an overdrive switch

decipha wrote: ↑2021 May 20, 22:29 your not gonna use any of those

yep u can add a knock sensor

aod is probably a hall but u can wire it up to the oss and we can see if it works

Should I run the wiring for OSS and VSS incase I need to change it around or should I not worry about it and just repin it at the ecu if needed? I assume both of them use signal return?

So I think I am still dealing with my fuel pump overheating my fuel. Its better than it was before because I dont have boiling issues but I get a pretty big swing in my fuel trims if I drive the car for a few hours vs 30 minutes. I currently have a on3 triple hat with dual 340lph pumps and an 03 cobra tank. The first pump runs off the computer, the second is activated by a Hobbs switch set at 3psi. I was thinking of switching out my main pump for a 190 or even 155lph pump and leave the secondary 340lph in there for when it goes into boost. I ultimately want to switch back to e85 so I need some overhead but I thought switching to a small main pump will help with the heating issues since I wouldnt be recirculating the fuel nearly as much. As a refresher, I completely rebuilt the fuel system last year. The regulator is in the rear. I have a 8an supply and a 6an return with 8an behind bars rails. the supply line from the rear to the front is wrapped in fiberglass insulation and reflective tape to reduce heat absorption. Will I have any issues running mismatched pumps or should I replace both pumps with 190s?

Oh yeah forgot about the upgrade. Mine was tuned before the k constant changes. Tuner pro is getting to the point where it's basically automatic setup

You should use an OEM distributor, they are superior in every way. Rebuild one yourself using a motorcraft pickup if you need to. You dont need an OEM to get it started using T4M2 though. There are multiple timing tables in T4M0, but the timing is simplified in T4M2 so there is only one timing table that is relevant. I have a couple OEM 95 distributors, if you are in a bind and absolutely cant find one I may be willing to sell a rebuilt one with a new Motorcraft pickup. Every time I see one in the junkyard, I grab it so I have a few spares.

If you dont have to use a chip/tune to run the 30# maf and injectors then you could simply use stock parameters for injectors and maf since its a calibrated maf. It should at least start and be pretty close. If you plugged in the actual injector data into the tune, you would need to increase (i believe) the maf curve to compensate for the calibration. I believe you would increase the whole maf curve by about 1.57, This would increase the maf curve by about 57%. 19x1.57 is almost 30 so thats where I got that number from. All a calibrated maf does is trick the computer into thinking less air is going into the engine that really is to compensate for big injectors so if you tell the computer the correct injector size, to get the maf flow you have to do the same to the maf curve.

is there a multiplier in CBAZA?

What function does 1321 serve and is this something i should be looking at this function in CBAZA?

I moved my regulator to the rear of the car to combat fuel getting too hot. I used to have issues with boiling fuel.

PaulC-turbo5.0 wrote: ↑2021 May 25, 07:33
Also like you mentioned my maf transfer needed adjusting but as usual its still fucking with me?! Driving it for a while yesterday after loading the tune it was adding a bunch of fuel, up to 10% in some spots. I worked it for a while dialing it in. Well to no surprise this morning driving in to work its pulling that much fuel?! I stopped shut the car off and loaded in the old maf transfer and the damn thing was still pulling fuel after.

This is my experience with the fuel error too. Fuel error when cold will be pulling 10% then when it gets hot, its adding 5 to 10%. I experienced the exact same thing today while trying to dial in fuel. Its a constant back and forth fight to get fuel error dialed in. add 10% this week, remove 10% next week

Decipha recommended putting a check valve on the fresh air vent to prevent unmetered air from entering the engine. This also will put the crankcase under a slight vacuum.