EFIDynoTuning Forum

k, fixed it. Forgot to reverse rows when I started using newest files.

So I just worry about changing values for 2250 & 3000 at corresponding decel loads? If Closed Throttle decel load at 2250 is .104, I just insert that value where the 1 is at .2 load under the 2250 column and if Closed Throttle decel load at load at 3000 is .0972, I replace the 1 under 3000 with .0972 at .1 load?

What about all the remaining values above the load #'s at 2250 and 3000? given I don't think I will see closed throttle decel loads above .2?

I won't touch anything below 2250, and I will enter .1 in all the higher rpm values. Have I got it right?

Sean

Question about the contens of this thread. I have FN1035 MAF backlow correction (decel lambda correction) opened up but I dont think I understand what I should change the values to. All 1's right now, and I understand I don't want to change anything below 2250 rpm, but I don't understand the first column values which start at top at .10, increasing by increments to finish on the last row as .6

I think I'm supposed to enter my acual lambda values at my corresponding rpm to (in my case) increase fuel on decel but I'm not confident on what the first column values represent and which row I should enter my lambda values in?

Sean

Following up.

I pulled and tested function and resistance of the fuel pump relay, nothing stands out as being wrong with it. It may be environmental factors that affected the relay’s function. My heater core is behind the center of my dash and relays are mounted together on the back of the firewall, not far from heater core. It may be that heat soak from sitting at the gas station raised ambient heat enough to affect the ability of the relay to stay engaged? I changed it out in any case, and moved my relay bundle farther away from the heater core. Seems fine now, whatever caused the issue previously.

Sean

I don't think it's related to overheat protection. Hottest it ever gets is 190 ECT, mostly runs between 185-190 ECT. ACT is in the manifold though, it can get over 160 when pushing it but when the specific shut down that happened above, ECT was 178, ACT was 146.

Sean

Hmm, never thought about fuel contaminants. Could be, I guess? It does seem more electrical in nature though, since it responded immediately to switching key off and back on. Didn’t happen again during the 4 mi drive back home. I’ll replace the fuel pump relay tonight and test, if rain stays away. I hate troubleshooting intermittent problems!

Thanks,

Prob good idea to focus on FP relay, since the ecu seemed to continue to spit out data after it engine cut out.

Sean

I am really happy with how my car is running with the correct injector data, Fuel finally pretty darn good, and now THIS!?

While pulling away from the gas station, just put it into 2nd at LOW speed and it feels alsmost like someone has turned off the ignition key. Both hegos dropped down to the basement (car keeps rolling, but no power, engine seems OFF). I push the clutch in to keep her rolling, ease it out to see if it will restart but NO. I quickly switch key off, then back on, release clutch and it jumps back to life as if nothing has happened.

Looking at the log I can see it went REALLY lean (verified by fuel error % and HEGOS at lowest voltage) but I'm guessing that was because there was NO fuel available!? It continues to start and run fine but it has done this to me several times now. I don't want a trip home on the ramp truck, so figure I'd seek some help from someone who may have seen these symptoms before? Battery is new, checked all main chassis & engine grounds, alternator is putting out good voltage, fuel pump runs and makes good pressure but something (I believe) is either turning the pump off or cutting power to the injectors intermittently. Anybody want to take a shot at what might be happening??

Here's a screen shot of my running state monitor and dashboard logged while the problem was occuring. Thanks for any help you can offer.

Sean

OK, here goes, one last question.

offset is a range of (voltage) values and cranking typically pulls my little battery down to under 10v (bounces between (more than 9v, less than 11v).

There is a considerable difference between my old offset and the new one at that voltage range (from .44ms at 9v, .37ms at 10v up to .32ms at 11v).

If I shoot for the 10v middle and add .37ms to the .42ms that worked for me before (25% higher than the calculated pw considering engine and injector size), that would take me up to .79ms cranking pw for ECT 160 and above.

Am I doing the math right? It does seem like I'm a bit short on fuel while cranking but am a bit nervous about adding that much more. Am I at risk of doing damage by adding that much more pw and potentially overshooting the mark?

Sean

Awesome. Thanks for making it understandable!

Sean

Is offset a time (ms) multiplier? There is a measurable difference in offset between the injector data I have swapped. I’ll see if I can figure it out. Does a % value difference between the old/new offset equate to a percentage change in ms of pw?

Sean