EFIDynoTuning Forum

Have the opportunity to snag an SCT X4 flashing device for my 2007 F-150, future plan for the truck is a Department of Boost GT5.4 supercharger kit and Stainless Works Long Tubes + catback exhaust.

Is the X4 worth picking up, or just sell it off with the locked out phasers it comes with (absolutely no plans to lock phasers) to fund towards something else like PCMFlash and a J2534 module?

On #4, would think since it's a switch that's just for when the engine will raise the target idle speed a bit to account for the drag on the engine the PS pump will have when it's actually moving the rack.

That's what I thought as it's a return system, however the CRAI8 pinout shows FP Module on pin 12.

Going off http://www.efidynotuning.com/pinouts.htm looks like AC/HVAC are the only big stuff I see outside of usual EFI stuff like Fuel Pump Module, EVAP, and tachometer. I assume the MS3 is capable of controlling fan outputs which go through the CCRM.

The 6.8 3v does have a balancer on the left side head, would imagine it would be similar, but probably best just to use the 2v manual.

If you don't want to find/buy an old copy of a ford superduty chassis (there may or may not be an F53 specific version) service manual, you could probably just get a $20 1 month subscription to AllDataDIY for a 2000 superduty truck with the 6.8L.

Anyone ever run a boost limiting valve on a centrifugal supercharger setup? Assuming they work as designed (basically a wastegate with an adjustable spring on the cold side piping), as long as it is BEFORE the MAF on a blow-through setup there shouldn't really be any issue with running one right?



We are trying to get away with running a larger vortech without forging the engine first. If it blows up it blows up, but would prefer to spend the money buying the larger supercharger kit (ADTR Marauder race-kit) instead of spending more time and money later to swap the SC, intercooler, piping, etc. I don't remember how I calculated it, but it seemed like even the largest pulley on the JT trim supercharger would result in far too much boost for the stock bottom end, hence the idea of limiting the boost via a BLV.

Supposedly BLVs can also be used to run a smaller pulley without over-boosting which in turn generates more boost at earlier RPM ranges, increasing the overall powerband without running too much boost at higher RPMs.

Have you tried just running it in open loop? Or can you just temporarily run both banks off of the bank 2 HEGO and read the plugs?

I suspect that maybe your exhaust leaks you mentioned are introducing air to the o2 sensor, causing false lean readings when the spark plugs are showing rich. I don't think reading plugs is a very definitive test, but if they are showing black and sooty despite "running lean" I would trust the plugs over the o2 sensor reading (unless you are misfiring of course, in which case the sensors will run lean as raw fuel is not read by them).

One thing you can try to fix the flange leak is using the high temp gasket maker (red or orange typically) to seal up the header flanges. From what I've been told this isn't extremely uncommon to have to do with long tube headers, I assume the proper fix would be to have the flanges decked or otherwise made to be flat.

I believe KRAF5 does not cover the ZX2 box codes, especially since the focus never had VCT except on the SVT which used the black oak instead of the EEC-V. I will eventually be pulling the trigger on premium membership and installing the QH on mine. The 3v in my truck might need to be replaced, but with time and money being short it's been really delaying everything.

hijacking the thread a bit here... decipha, have you done any lean burn tunes, or tunes for fuel economy in general? I imagine this is as more or less as simple as setting target AFs in the lean range and running open loop. This may be the direction I want to go on my ZX2 for now.

Do they have the same number of injector drivers?

From quick google image searching it looks like the drivers are the tall components on the sides of the ECU, also used for idle speed control and also voltage regulation for the ECU?

I would start by going through the circuit and figure out what you're missing, do you have power at relay pin 30 at all times and power at relay pin 85 (in park/neutral and key in crank position)? Does the relay coil energize when you turn the key (power at pin 85) and power at 87 if so? Is your engine block grounded well to the chassis? Etc. etc.