EFIDynoTuning Forum

it'd be nice if it was that easy but I dont think it is. My fp gauge is showing 36 psi with vac connected and 44 disconnected with I think is within fords spec. I think the fuel is either circulating way more then needed or I am getting captivation from the return line restricting flow which makes the fuel pickup heat. I see a 2 psi drop on my gauge after the car has been running for a bit. It makes for larger swings in my fuel error then I'd like and also have some minor startup stuff that cant be dialed in perfect because of the fuel temp changing so much

thats an interesting solution I'll have to research this a bit. first concern that comes to mind though is if the switch or relay decided to fail and I mash the pedal would it possibly be super lean from the pump voltage being reduced?

got a fox body with stock lines, rails, and pump hanger and ever since upgrading to a larger pump I have had issues with too much flow. I originally had a 340lph and bumped it down to a 255lph which helped lower the pressure at idle but I still have issues with fuel trim swings due to overheating the fuel I believe. upsizing the return line would likely be the best solution but at this point I think I would have to change just about everything to avoid having the 1/4" restriction somewhere. I am looking for options on the simplest and least expensive way to remedy this issue.

would increasing my base fuel pressure help? this would still require some work since I dont have room currently for the kirban adjustable regulator on the stock rails

could I somehow lower voltage to the pump? lowering just at idle and low load cruise would be ideal but lowering it overall could be possible too since I likely have enough headroom. piggybacking this idea could a pmw controller for the pump be a good option?

would a 190lph pump flow enough up top for my needs?

any and all suggestions are welcome

Glad to see your making some progress.

Going off of memory(last year), since the weather here in NY has continued to be shit so the car hasnt even left the driveway yet this year, after my transient settings were reset by Decipha what you decribe is exactly how my car acts. It was definitely weird at first and took some getting used to but once I did I actually liked it. I didnt touch transients after that I was happy enough not having the crazy swings to cause bucking when cold.

Take this for what its worth, I see the man has responded with something much more in depth while I was typing lol

Thanks man this is what I ended up doing

want to upgrade to the latest files to enjoy all of the recent improvements but have a few questions.

what is the best/easiest way to combine my current tune with the latest released stuff? I assume it will be to download and open the latest files and then run the compare feature in TP and copy over all of the important specifics from my working tune to the new file?

the other question is on the new approach toward the isc multiplier and dashpot. is there a way to convert what I have dialed in on my current tune to the new stuff or will I have no choice but to start fresh and re-dial these in?

I would suggest trying to delay CL when cold, I have mine set to 3 mins for cold and warm and 15 seconds for hot. My car does not control fueling very good cold and I think its due to the turbo piping and the hego being far enough away it takes a while to get heated up properly.

My guess is youll mess around with breakpoint, maf transfer, etc. and none of it will have an effect. I know I did that forever and fueling being a few percent out here and there isnt going to cause this big of an issue. Good luck I know how frustrating it can be

how long do you leave her in OL when cold? it seemed for me that it was transient fueling that I messed with that caused my issue with this.

Never thought about relocating but for the effort I’ll probly just ditch it

I have my upper intake flipped so inlet is on driver side which now puts the ugly egr valve sticking out toward the front and its also making slight contact with my hood when closed. I am thinking of deleting it but when searching this topic on the google machine you can easily read threads for hours and get so many differing opinions.

should I delete it or no?

if so do I need to change anything in my tune? pretty sure the answer to this is no since I've ran it disconnected while logging my WB.

If I do delete it I will make a blockoff plate for the valve and buy a new phenolic spacer without the hole so the exhaust gasses wont come up into the intake anymore.