EFIDynoTuning Forum

I am running into the rev limiter because the shift doesn’t happen correctly. I don’t seem to be making any progress by changing the tv table. Can somebody confirm what table I should be adjusting by calling it out as in TunerPro please? Also, thinking of doing j-mod as well. Please assist, thank you

So I have a Positive Displacement Blower in place on top of the 4V 4.6. I removed the egr module during the swap and when doing so decided I should splice into the 03 cobra map sensor to the egr baro input circuits. I need some clarification.

Does the egr baro input get used in functions for fueling and engine control?

If not, is there a way to prevent a baro fault code with that equipment being missing temporarily during my engine calibration adjustments?

Update: Engine isn’t hurt. I put in a new set of pistons to bump the compression a touch and polished the chambers. Engine runs great!

A little. I believe the gen 1 f150 modular oil pump gears are direct replacement for 3v oil pump housing and eliminate the need to modify the flats of the crank snout (cool). So you would need 2 factory pumps (3valve and early f150 5.0) and then put the gears of the early 5 liter f150 into the 3v pump housing. Aftermarket gear options are limited I believe as they seem to just all use later coyote pump housings and gears. However, I believe the next problem is the thrust bearing needing to be spaced excessively to fit a 4.6 and this problem maybe the reason to avoid the coyote crankshaft. I haven’t been able to validate this yet and may not attempt either.

It wasn’t my tune or my parts selection that was my issue which is great! Stock stroke 4valve with low compression pistons (heavy) and (heavy h beam rods). It was nice to see all the pistons looked great as well as their respective bores. Minor scuffs that couldn’t be felt from the 2618 slugs was all I could find. The blower and the rest of the cylinders had 0% related damage!

Foreign debris (wiper cowel spring clip) was the cause. It dropped into cylinder 8 intake port during a timing cover reseal. (I heard something drop and looked at the intake ports but apparently I failed to detect the intrusion. What a nightmare!) The engine runs fine and has good compression just found related damage to piston crown and chamber on 8.

I disassembled looking for a failure during my analysis and Cylinder 8 wasn’t hurt in the block but I plan to replace the slug and do some chamber refinishing and polishing globally…

I have a few questions for you folks wanting to help…

1. I decided to run heavy h-beams and heavy pistons to take abuse with a stock stroke crank at low compression because I want to tune for up 20 psi boost with a PD blower and keep the rpm’s under 6k. Would I be better off over boring the block and using a stroker crank (machined 3rd gen coyote), with 5.2 predator rods and a custom piston?

2.Would it be better to bump static compression to 9.5?

3.I have been informed that improved exhaust valves, seats and a spring package is a need for FI engine. Should I replace all the guides, use stainless exhaust valves, install new exhaust seats and find a better spring package? If so, I would like to hear pointers…

I may try a coyote crank (machined for 4.6 snout), GT 500 rods and a custom piston for the shortblock…

I do want to improve my cylinder heads regardless of short block repair/rebuild.

Lay those thoughts//answers on me if you have them please

Thanks Everyone!

-Mike

Are we able to ask this EEC to have control of the engine up to 7000 rpm?

I am asking because I’m considering cams and head work that would likely optimize power where 6700 rpm’s shift points would be best and want to know what the eec is capable of.

On a relative basis, cylinder 8 is within 1% of all others when cranking. It was probably a touch low because of the spark plug ground strap hitting something and closing it shut causing cylinder washing out. I opened the gap up and it runs fine but I’m afraid the piston head and chamber look injured with the camera. I need to remove the heads to do a better failure analysis. I can’t think of debris finding it’s way in somehow after 10k miles. Maybe detonation related to spark timing. Will update

So on my way to work driving like grandpa I stopped at a red light. A couple seconds idling later the car ran rough.

I see cylinder 8 misfiring in “power balance”

I see cylinder 8 1% low on a relative basis with a “crank speed” compression test.

I have the later run DB/DC heads or whatever and the head cooling system crossover mod but I never upgraded seats, valves, guides or springs!

I figure this was bound to happen because I cut a corner so to speak…

First I will validate my suspicion of the seat becoming loose. Then,

I am asking for advice…

My question: where can get heads rebuilt where they know how to install better guides, cut to install all new seats, upgrade all the valves and install better springs for additional boost?

I haven’t found success in finding knowledgeable ford modular engine machinist services. Does anyone have recommendations that might be more economical than what I’m finding like Modular Head Shop?

Just trying to decide if going with CNC porting and combustion chamber services is worth all that additional cost

Thanks

Yes, I believe that is the specific part I installed.


I do need to work on my pump voltage table as well, thank you for that information

I will take another look