EFIDynoTuning Forum

@Snake0503 Jegs calls the ring pressed on to the differential carrier an Abs Exciter Ring (Tone Ring). The 8.8 has 108 teeth, the 7.5 has 102 teeth.
I have cable driven speedometers for both the '97MM 5.0 (#1) and the 54 F100 5.0 (#2). For the '54 with a 1969 Cougar speedo and tach, I'll have to use an early 90's Mustang or F150 speedometer for cruise control to capture an electrical signal off of the transmission. I'm pretty sure that I will need the Dakota Digital box to make the antique tachometer function.
I would have to disconnect my 104 pin connector from the '97MM to see if I left the Explorer/Mountaineer pin # 48 wire in place. I assume that I did.
In my 1999 Crown Vic wiring book, at pin #48 says not used.
Dated, it depends on where one is looking at it from. My 17-year-old grandson would say that all of this is dated. He is not into automobiles. If he were, I would suggest that he start with a vehicle with a carburetor to learn the fundamentals about gas and spark. Changing jet sizes and reading plugs.
When we were ignorant teenagers, in the summer, our Holleys always ran rich. The local speed shop didn't suggest that we drop a jet size for our altitude. We are at 650 to 850 ft above sea level. We would drive down to the gulf coast and our home-built hotrods would run really well at sea level.
Holleys are factory tuned for sea level altitude @70 degrees F.
After looking at the 99CV book and the 97MM book, I'm sure that I would have left the tach wire in place. These are 99CV pics.

@Snake0503 The tone ring/reluctor wheel on the 7.5 and Explorer 8.8 have different number of teeth. Something that I assume could be adjusted.
When I started my project summer of 2021, I had the harness and PCM from a 1999 Crown Vic. I wasn't aware of this site until ~ Feb 2923 which has all the information about how to do the conversions the best way. I ended up modifying the original '97 Explorer/Mountaineer harness that was only wired for 4 coil drivers. I was so focused on repurposing the 2 rear O2 sensor wires to make the the other 4 coil driver wires that it totally slipped by me that the '99 Crown Vic didn't even have a tachometer. Go figure. This Morning I looked in my 2003 Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis book and it does have the tach on pin 48. The '99 CV power train harness is going to get extensively modified to use in 5.0 #2 in a 1954 F100, using the 2003 PCM.
So far the Dakota Digital box is the only way that I found to make my '97 MM with the '99 CV PCM tachometer work. You would think that the tachometer provision would be inside that unit. I don't know though because I'm very much a rookie having to do with all of the Automotive Technician stuff.
I'm an old school Mechanic. 45 years ago the old school guys would call us new school mechanics because we were messing with 289s then 302s with Holleys and dual point distributors then in 1973 Duraspark came out and we ditched the dual point distributors that took weekly adjusting.

ADDED 10-03-24 @3:40 p.m. The 2nd PCM with the same ARA3 P 71 file runs much better than the first one. It can be brought up to a higher rpm and hold it there for a bit. So far idling, it acts like it is slowly running out of gas. There is a partial issue with the TPS. I have another used one at home. I know that it's best to use new parts but the have to be tested too.

Question for Michael P. Which of these catch codes/versions would be best suited for the 4R70W?
JJV1 3.8 V6 manual mustang
DDM1 3.8 V6 automatic mustang
KYC1 4.6 GT automatic
FHA3 4.6 GT manual - Emissions Exempt
BAI2 4.6 GT manual - Cali Emissions
AOL1 4.6 cobra
VTC2 - grand marquis
YYA2 - crown victoria 3.27 gear police
FLC2 - town car

ADDED 10-04-24 @3:38 Project on hold.The 2nd used TPS in worse shape than the 1st one.The new genuine FoMoCo TPS is on its way. TBC.

I somewhat have the engine running. The manifold is not leaking at the head but it is at the exhaust flange. This will require an exhaust shop to fix.
I can understand that a leak like that could keep from running correctly even in open loop? That is a question. The AFR gauge is all over the place but occasionally it will read stable for a short time.The throttle doesn't want to rev up when giving it some peddle. If you let it sit and idle from start up, it runs well then it gets slower and slower to the point that you can speak "1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8" then it dies.
In the meantime, I can be getting the other PCM ready with CRAI8 I think it is. One of the YYA2 varieties, with the QH etc. I just wish it would run well enough to make it to the exhaust shop. The leak is one the passenger side of the engine. The wideband sensor is in the lh exhaust pipe about 24" downstream.
The biggest problem is it won't throttle up to drive it normal.
Also wondering once it does warm up, what will the PCM think about the rear o2 sensors not present. Will it just post a code but not run any different otherwise?

The twisty Explorer manifolds and the TM Headers patterned after the stock manifolds interfere with the 7.3 coil placement and brackets. Someone could remote mount the coils and be able to use the stock or the TM headers. I have Mustang on the mind with the current coil placement. This Mountaineer 5.0 project is just to prove that a 5.0 c-n-p ignition system will work. I started this project years ago before I found this site. The second 5.0 will be using the 2003 pcm that Michael recommends along with other recommendations on his site.
I had some headers picked out from Advanced Adapters, but they don't make these anymore. Originally for Ranger V-8 swaps. I'm looking for a set, even used up ones. I took care of the transmission ear today. I ended up cutting off half or more of it.
Square nub in the dark left side of pic touching manifold. Now the manifold sits up tight. The M II rh manifold is the only
Ford manifold that will fit in this tight space. Old 1965 Mustang HiPo manifolds may fit too.
1977 Mustang II V-8 rh exhaust manifold pictured below. I'm not sure why the picture didn't load.

The wideband AFR gauge/O2 sensor kit should be here Monday or Tuesday. After trying to start it but no fire, the injector noid light wouldn't light. I changed to another camshaft position sensor, the noid light worked as well as the inline spark indicator light. After building fuel pressure, the engine fired. So far it has idled only for about 30 seconds twice. The tach is not working as well as the start circuit has an open short or the digital range transmission switch is not calibrated. The rh exhaust manifold donut gasket is the wrong size and leaking. Transmission engaged. Just a few more things to wrap up before a test drive including installing the AFR gauge. I wouldn't be surprised if it is running a little lean after being warmed up. It is a 4.6 tune running a 5.0. But maybe the PCM will adjust to its feedback and run about right. We will see.
ADDED Sept 28th: The DTRS wasn't snapped in good. Starter works at the key.
Tachometer. The 1997 Mountaineer has a tachometer that is wired to pin #48 in the original '97 PCM. The 1999 Crown Victoria does not have a tachometer. In its PCM, pin #48 is not used. I would like to come up with a way to have a working tachometer.
I'll be looking at the exhaust leak tomorrow or Monday.
ADDED Oct 1st: Monday the AFR gauge kit showed up. It will be installed today. Also, most of the hands-on time was spent disconnecting the rh manifold to flange connection and reconnecting it. The working space for this is very tight in the Ex/MM bodies. I assume it is the same as it has to do with the small Rangers. I got another set of eyes to look at the area of the leak. I couldn't see it but all across the bottom of the rh 1977 Mustang II rh side exhaust manifold is not sitting down against the exhaust ports properly. I'm sure that those of you that have been around 4R70Ws have seen the big square block nubs on the side of the transmission case. The nub is holding the manifold from sitting against the cylinder head properly. Hopefully the Sawsall will fit up in the tight space to chop it off. The working space is very tight and right next to the dipstick tube for the transmission.
Pictures will be added later.

Paul, The AEM AFR o2 sensor gauge and kit is on the shopping list. Thanks for the ID on the cheap kit that I was misled purchasing just because someone stated that it was a wideband kit. I'm learning a lot here in a short amount of time.
I'm ready to start this truck for the first time, even without the new AFR kit installed. I just want to hear it run for 10 seconds. Yesterday, I used an '86 "fox body" distributor that had the drive gear removed to pump up the engine. The 3/8" cordless drill fit the 1/4" top shaft. The housing made the whole process very stable. On my antique analog oil gauge, it was reading 44 #s of oil pressure at 75 degrees F. cold 5W30 oil. The engine would not fire because fuse 19 was missing, a 25-amp micro mini fuse for the ignition and PCM.

After reading https://www.autosuccessonline.com/wideb ... fferences/, I see that the dead give away is the cheap kit that I bought is a narrowband o2 sensor kit and the sensor only has 4 wires. I have a BOSCH 5 wire sensor only, so yes, I can see the 5 wires coming out of it.

Thanks for adding the link. I had looked at it then didn't think to add it here where others could access it from here. I have an AEM kit on the way and will install it in the lh exhaust manifold EGR plug. It looks like I will be using the $41- 18mm drill bit and tap afterall. The other O2 sensor bung already has the cheap kit installed in it. I'll compare it to the known AEM wideband AFR kit.
I turned the engine over a few times with the PCM relay pulled out to see if I'm getting any oil pressure. I'm tempted to remove the camshaft position sensor and turn the pump with a speed wrench to get some oil pressure. I know that the oversized oil filter is empty so it would take quite a few oil pump revolutions to build some pressure.
Picture below is of the lh manifold proposed WB sensor location.

Glad to read y'all's breakdown on what you have done installing a 5.0 in a 1998 to 2011 coil spring 2wd Ranger. You're right, there is hardly any info for that 5.0 swap. That will be my 2nd c-n-p 5.0/4R70W swap which will be a 1999 2wd shorty Ranger. I could tell that the Explorer pan wouldn't work without some extra fab work. For now, I have a 1968 early Bronco 302 oil pan that is a rear sump design. The crossmember still may need a flat spot for it. The Ranger has the VSS at the differential and an Explorer rear end that I have has it too. I'll be using the 2003 PCM that Michael has strongly suggested. I look forward to the project after getting the Mountaineer on the road.
Keep up the good work, looking good.