EFIDynoTuning Forum

It does not surprise me one bit. Almost all manufacturers are going to be following the Tesla model; where there is really no "dealership" in it's current form, rather only a service center.

I work for a dealership (non automotive) and have seen this heading that direction for a few years now. If a customer wants something, he's gotta show up and order it. We carry very little in stock. There are enough stock units so that the consumer can get a general idea of what to expect; but as far as having a lot full of inventory, that went away in about 2020. Almost everything is special order only.

Now the downside to the tesla model is that there are going to be many challenges to work through. The days of test driving a new vehicle are about to be over with. If you want one you want one, if you are not sure what you want, you're gonna have to just put a deposit down on something that you don't know anything about, and that in itself can hurt sales for some folks, particularly older folks. I'm pushing 50, and I can kind of understand how the older generation feels about this. Most of the younger generation (late teens through thirties) have no preference here, they're used to "order now get it later and hope for the best".

Salesmen, in their current form, are going to have to make big changes. The days of actually pushing a consumer into a vehicle are numbered; a lot of folks that show up nowadays know exactly what they want when they walk through the door of our little dealership, they walk to a sales person and say I want this, and I'm ready to make a deposit. But this begs the question, are salespeople in their current form going to disappear? I really don't think so, but again it depends much on how the manufacturers and dealers (aka service centers) handle this whole ordeal. I'm on the service side of things and the demand for repair/maintenance is always going to be there in some shape or form. Our salespeople are kinda nervous about their future, however.

And on the other end, if things go the way I think they will, in other words, if you want a new vehicle you get on the computer, place the order, then go to a dealer and give em a deposit, the next step is....waiting....I ordered a new vehicle in MARCH of 2022, and it has yet to show up. Now if I had a vehicle that ran/drove currently it is no huge deal, other than the anxiety of waiting, but in my case, my other vehicle is dead, costs more to fix than it's worth, so I had to run out and buy a $3500 pile of steaming feces to get by with for, what was supposed to be about 45 days....and here we are almost 120 days later, and I'm still driving (and fixing) this turd. This waiting crap is going to have to be addressed, regardless of what type vehicle it is (EV or ICE). People can't afford nor are they willing to wait. Dealer is certainly not going to refund my $3500, nor are they willing to offer $3500 trade-in value (I mean this thing really is rough, but it's all that could be found at the time), nor reduce the MSRP by that much to offset. It's a bad deal all around, and it HAS to change for this to work efficiently for both the buyer and the seller; which I believe needs to start at the top (manufacturer).

as far as some states requiring a dealership, I don't think it has much affect. Besides, laws are made so that they can be changed, and fairly easily.

Apparently the t-bolt clamps have to be super tight. I ran through them and cranked 'em all down tight and code 42 went away. Later on I kept getting a baro code, runs a little lean too. I was stopped at a gas station in March for a fill-up and a guy stopped in & made me an offer on the car. Couldn't not let it go. I guess the baro has something going on with it, the guy called me out of the blue a couple days ago and said he's pooped a head gasket, wanted to know about the baro code. I never dealt with it and had no input other than perhaps a bad bap. Ain't heard nothing since. Not that I care--that project is out of my hair now.

Yeah I probably can. George called me a while back and said that Craig was sick and it didn't look good. I told him let's let it ride-in hopes that RCI would be able to bring in another experienced fabricator to fill orders. Looks like that hasn't happened, which is unfortunate in several ways. I've reached out to George, and we'll see where it goes.

There are other brands out there. I just don't know what's decent and what's not. I just got through building an entire set for my Maverick and that's an option that's not quite off the table for this car but frankly after all is said and done, it's cheaper to just buy them. And a LOT less work! I just don't know what's out there that is any count quality wise. I sure don't like these Hookers.

And lastly if I have to buy new, I'm also going to have to rebuild the entire mid pipe.

I ordered a NEW set of headers, and the guy who builds them died--so I haven't gotten anything yet. It's coming up on a year.

So-I took the headers completely off of the car. Replaced the silicone with gaskets. Still a tiny leak at the right side, between the adapter plate and the head. I don't see anything wrong with the parts, but it does have a tiny leak there that I can't seem to get figured out. Now,between the header and the adapter plate, that's all sealed up nicely now. This Helped the differential between banks at idle, still shows a sizable (10-20%) difference when cruising and it seems to be RPM related, meaning 1500-1800 rpm with little to no load, just maintaining speed (in my case 50-60 mph in 6th). At idle it's really close, 2-3% at most. Or was this morning. With this car who knows, it could be 30% now, and maybe zero tomorrow. It has a mind of it's own for sure. I was thinking maybe PCV issue BUT every 408w fox body I seen with a super victor/elbow/90mm, all uses the same PCV setup. Actually that's the reason I put this thing together the way I did, make it easier (run-of-the-mill) for ME to tune by asking questions.


Another issue that drives me absolutely crazy that I can't figure out--if I'm cruising at no matter what RPM (I haven't tried higher rpm), say I get off the throttle to decel a little coming up on a curve or traffic or whatever. Then, once I get back into the throttle even the slightest bit, it goes lean big time, feel it, see it on the WB too. Didn't datalog it (yet). I had asked about it before but I think it was on the old board. Even if I'm sitting at a stop light, idling (800), and start to throttle up to accel from a stop, it will go lean for a split second, WB goes to 1.2X and even higher, engine runs like absolute poo, then the corrections take over and it will drop back to around 1.0x and it'll run "decent". Dunno what to do there but it's very very annoying. With this setup, the difference between idle and 2000 RPM is a VERY slight touch of the throttle, there is nothing in between (in neutral, first and usually second gear) so parking lots are a lot of clutch slippage. First gear, it will literally spin the tires as the corrections take over from the lean spot.

oh and a stupid question, don't think its related. When I start the car, cold, while cranking (1-2 seconds at most) the tach will jump up to 1000-3000 rpm berfore the engine starts. Once started it works normal. It doesn't do it hot, but it doesn't crank but about 1/4 second before starting when it's hot. Idea? I thought bad ground but I've checked all the ones I know of via voltage drop test; all fine.

U can run less rear gear with the 10R80, with the 4.69 gear. They use the 10R on 4 cyl applications too, with a 3.15 final; and they do great.

pulled injectors, sent them out, they all flow the same, no leakage--everything came back perfect as I expected them to. I'd have thought that if I swapped them side to side, if one was bad, the problem would follow and it did not. Still lost on this deal.

At a car show the other day I had mentioned to someone there about this problem and he asked if I had an aluminum flywheel. I do. Guy said he had to swap his back to steel and it made a difference. I can't understand why though. Weird!

I use a fan, because bracket racing. Sometimes there's not 15 minutes between rounds, often less in later rounds. Last year in the semi, and finals were all run in 20 minutes succession. Engine will get hot (well warm), but the fan + electric water pump will cool the block down sufficiently in 5 minutes' time in the Arkansas summer heat. Engine and trans Oil temp is also critical when you're chasing ten thousandths of a second.

I guess I don't follow the integrated EDIS module? You mean use a 03-04 entire ECU, then have to buy a chip for it? Or? Sorry, I'm a kind of a dummy with this-but learning.

75 ford maverick bracket race car. 440" SBF, methanol injected (think of it as a carburetor but even more crude). Makes about 700hp n/a and no power adders. Shift at about 7200-ish, finish line sometimes gets up around 7800 depending on the weather. 7600 most of the time.

Looking at EDIS and using MegaJolt. I have a lot of it figured out, or "brainstormed", but a few things that people have been telling me have me concerned, to the point where I don't think I'm gonna go any further until I get some better understanding.

I have the MJ (E) box, and I have an EDIS-8 module from a Crown Vic 4.6 (96 I think). Some guys are telling me that the EDIS module won't support the RPM that my car turns. Most are telling me that 6300 is tops. Some say 25,000 tops. Who's right and who's full of it? 6300 is the stall speed of the converter for crying out loud!

Second issue and may be a non-issue. The car has a 16v battery in it, which will stay. It has 3 terminals on it, ground +12v and +16v. IT is all 16v right now. Any reason EDIS won't run on 16v? I haven't found a 12v accessory yet that doesn't work better on 16v. No alternator on this car. Running voltage stays up around 15.5v with everything on (fans, lights, ignition, etc). The charger puts out a little over 18v, and I kick the master switch off if I'm charging (always).

Thought about going with coil-near-plug but I don't have a controller for that, and would need to buy something. MegaJolt/C is a dead project and would have probably worked fine for what I'm doing. So that leaves me with MS3, right? Can MS3 run ignition only without it getting confused with not having any FI? Really all I need is a 2D ignition. Start at about 15 deg BTDC and then all in by 1000 rpm at 38, then pull 2 deg at 6000, 2 more deg by 6800. With MSD 6AL box and dist currently in the car, I can't do all that. It has really soft "HEI" springs on the mech adv, so it's cranking at 14 initial and 32 by 800, whhere it stays. It slows down at 34 deg (MPH drops way off).

93 Mustang LX, 2.3T from a Merkur. Using the 93 main harness, but retrofitted the Merkur engine harness. LA3 computer from a turbocoupe, also using a turbocoupe VAM.

Been fine for the several years I drove it daily. Went into paint over a year ago, got it back and putting it together. All boost and vacuum leaks fixed that I could find. Keep getting a code 42 sitting there idling which never happened in the past. Still has the 1+ year old gas in the tank. It don't stink but I know it goes bad.

2 questions. Could old fuel throw a code 42 (engine rich) code? And secondly since these are the original 1986 fuel injectors and I may end up putting new(er?) ones in,, are there any flow matched sets available anywhere that yall know of?

The real beauty of 10 forward speeds is the RPM band can be kept really narrow under power. So with that said, with a controller you could set your shift point to, say, 7000, and after the shift, RPM might only drop to 6500. In doing this, it also allows one to tailor the engine's power curve TO the shift points, potentially giving you a real advantage. The only complaint I had out of mine was that the 2-3 shift was a little on the violent side under power. many have said the same thing. Mine was bone stock 2.3L.