EFIDynoTuning Forum

I def understand being more specific for ranges vs. global. At the very least I read the Parameter Comments on that one which is why I got the idea it's equiv to advancing the timing w/ the distributor for non-EFI. I know our EFI requires 10* and nothing else since the EFI takes care of the rest. As always good info and Thank You Decipha :)

From Parameter Comments:

KPS1 - Global Spark Modifier

It is recommend to set this scalar to -3.0 to remove -3 degrees of timing when testing on the dyno or at the track. If the engine increase power or MPH decrease this scalar again to -6.0 to remove more spark. Keep removing timing until the engine slows down then Add back in -2 degrees.

If the engine lost power when -3.0 was removed, add in +2.0 degrees and see if the engine responds. It is not recommended to add anymore than +6.0 degrees of timing on naturally aspirated engines or any more than +4.0 degrees on boosted engines. Adding timing on boosted engines can lead to engine damage.

If you want to advance your timing by say 2*, is the Open Throttle Spark Modifier - KPS1 the appropriate place? I added 2* a few months ago and it does appear to advance it as I expected it to. Saw this post so figured I'd just ask and it might be relevant to the author.

Well restoring the RPM settings back to what you had def seems to make starting easier and at a very cold start it will ramp up to 1200 RPMs then settle out like the stock ECM did vs. having the 688 set, it never ran over 1,000 RPMs ever when starting up.

The three settings I had changed were: Idle Speed Neutral & Drive and Default Desired RPMs all which I had set to 688 last year up until now. It's AZ so we don't have lots of ice cold weather and I've only had this issue like 4 or 5 times now across the last few years so I can only suspect what happened and really say what seemed to resolve things. If I'm wrong about all of it, then totally fair cuz I'm no expert :D

I did flip the table after reading the response initially and it does map correctly :D Haven't ran it like that but was curious. Got it all working and the purge fuel BIN I made works nicely. Because I really can't get the pedal down to over 900 TP I don't think I can initiate that clear command anyways so the MAF table is the best way to go in my case. The carpet limits the last bit of travel and I'm not fixing that any time soon...

So the cause of my flooding I believe was setting the Default Desired RPM and a couple other RPM settings to 688. It ran great all summer and even winter like that but I'm thinkin when I have my bad start and I flood it, the limit I'm setting on the RPMs (the original values were higher than 688) restricts it from turning over and further floods it. It's worse when it's extremely cold out but as said I've only had this situation a few times now but it's a nightmare gettin it restarted after. I restored it back to 1200 RPMs and the others to 725/whatever and it fires up NP and still idles around "688" anyways. It varies of course but w/ the MAF table good it idles proper and I see when it's cold it'll startup closer to 1200 then calm down vs. when I had it set to 688, that's pretty much where it always ran at.

I'm thankful I checked but before I drove it, I did check my oil after flooding it and I was oddly quite a bit over. Sure enough I pulled a sample pour (I have a Fumoto oil drain valve w/ a lever) and it came out like water so I made diesel fuel ;) Fortunately I never drove it since I found this before I drove off but yeah the flooding was pretty serious. W/ the purge fuel BIN, that won't happen anymore since it only flooded from sitting after I got pissed off and walked away (one of the few times you shouldn't walk away even if you're pissed off :D ) Fresh oil is in there now and all has been well for the last few days and I even have a few hours of trail time in ;)

Thank you Decipha and yeah that's what I was tryin to explain, but didn't do a great job ;)
And yes clearly I missed the reverse row but I see that's just a visual/display thing so I gather it wasn't really an issue but if I flip my MAF as is that probably won't go so well ;) I actually like the low to high view cuz I don't have to resize the History/Monitor/Dashboard/Comments window as far down :D

I'll give the pedal a shot! And gotcha on the MAF, where clipping to 0 somewhere along the MAF curve I gather causes "that fault"? Somewhere I think you said/replied w/ EEC-IV it's forgiving in having a bad MAF table w/ a huge drop that breaks the curve (paraphrasing all this) like what you're suggesting to do, and it will run up to basically 900 and fault out but not fail. Later style ECMs, I think you (or whoever wrote this) said EEC-V was included, is less forgiving and won't run/cause much more undesirable results than Iv.

Love the manual hacks the engineers put in there :) I did see the PW crank code you have while paroozing and realized that's why it slows down/dies off vs. something else actually dying. Def thought my battery and/or starter was just dying at first but I could always restart and and it'd act normal till it dies off then rinse/repeat. It was clearly code ;) Thank you for adding that too btw!

Invert the table.... I've always wondered about my tables and the inversion... So lots of other MAF tables show highest/lowest like you suggest vs. lowest/highest like I have but some do too. Even EEC Analyzer and I'm sure Binary Editor show as highest/lowest.... I even wrote a conversion in my fuel spreadsheet to invert it when I needed to transfer it to say EA...

The reason my table is inverted is because that's how the MAF table shows in the A9L2_220405.bin file which is where I started. I just assumed you had it low to high for good reason in the base BIN, so I just stuck with that since day one and it's been 1,000s of adjustments since... Never had a reason to question/ask about it.... But aight I flipped it and I see even the graph displays correctly :) I'll test it tomorrow/this weekend.

Thank You!

Once the conversion takes place, this is how my MAF table ended up w/ the incremental 1-29 but still valid:
0 0.0
50 0.9
75 1.8
100 3.2
125 4.1
150 5.0
175 5.9
200 6.8
225 8.2
250 9.1
275 10.0
300 10.9
325 11.8
350 13.2
375 14.1
400 15.0
425 15.9
450 16.8
475 18.2
500 19.1
525 20.0
550 20.9
575 21.8
600 23.2
650 24.1
700 25.0
750 25.9
800 26.8
900 28.2
1023 29.1

If I set MAF table for Kg/Hr incrementally from 1-29 (zero will be zero still) so basically it increments but wouldn't really put any amount of fuel in.... Would this be a safe/effective way to crank the engine over and purge the fuel in the cylinders from it being flooded?

Cause of the Flooding:
This has happened a few times before when I first had to build my MAF table from scratch and a couple times doin some other work like on the transmission. It happens when I run the engine for just a few seconds to make sure something works, and do this a couple/few times. Then I'm good and ready to run it and I go to start but it stumbles a bit. If I'm quick and tap the pedal it will fire and run but if I miss it, I flood the engine and have to pull the spark plugs to dry things out. It's worse when it's cold out. This process takes a few hours, sometimes a few days but once it fires up and I let it run for at least a minute or so it won't have an issue starting after that.
While the issue is present, IF I can get it to fire while cranking, it will also be a huge puff of smoke and my garage is filled with a VERY rich fuel smell. After that if I try cranking again, it's def game over and floods it worse. If I put a high power fan on to clear the fuel in the air and wait a bit I can crank and almost get it to start again but this is where it either will fire up OR flood it again...

SO I figure maybe if I just set the MAF as I was thinkin in my ?, maybe I can clear it that way vs. pull the spark plugs and wait for the fuel in the large cylinders to evaporate from the tiny spark plug port....
Gonna give this a try probably anyways but a thumbs up or "you're a f'in idiot" wouldn't hurt ;)

HA! NP and you're welcome! It was quite the adventure.... ;) I did some electrical and had a basic understanding of 12v about 15-18 years ago when I first tried to figure out the heater/voltage drop issue. Because of the weird shyte it did especially with the voltage for both of the blower fan wires being Neg. w/ KeyOff but then switching to Pos. w/ KeyOn and getting a Neg. AND Pos. reading when the truck is on for the Neg. blower switch wires..... I didn't touch any electrical for a few years after because I seriously believed I had no f'in clue what I was doin at that point.

Got forced into it later w/ my motorcycle then the truck again and never seen anything like that since till revisiting the blower motor :D :\ Knowing a lot more now, done a lot more electrical since, plus more/better tools helped too and I guess I knew what I was doin to begin with ;)

Here's the log of when I turned the heater on and the pic of the graph showing when it happens. I only set it to #2 for the speed setting too so 3 or 4 would have a much larger impact. Turning on the AC has an even bigger impact but I've never recorded that since I don't use my AC/not charged. It is all functional/new, just don't care w/ the open top and really wanted to finish the engine before I charge it in case I have to pull anything off. Regardless, when I did have AC many years ago, turning it on would bog the engine down heavily. Thought it was just normal but now seein this since now I have logs, (knowin how to read wiring diagrams better helps too) I see what likely happened and why the truck runs like shyte w/ the AC. Might not be an issue w/ my fix tho. TBD one day maybe ;)