EFIDynoTuning Forum

I believe I posted a picture of the EEC tag a while ago in here and you said you didn't recognize it and it would be $1200ish to build the Bin for it.



Jeremy

Hello,

I'm looking for CMP sensor information on this (and other) strategies. I have a project that I'm trying to sort out my best option for an EEC that I am able to tune but also utilize the hardware on the engine.

The engine originally used an EEC, however there are no bin files for this strategy. I'm hoping to use something in the same generation (engine is an 01-02 out of a Mazda) and use a more readily available EEC that bins are already written for.

If anyone has graphs of CKP versus CMP for different strategies it would save me having to get the car running on the engine's original EEC and figuring out what other EEC's use similar hardware.

Thanks



Jeremy

decipha wrote: ↑2023 Jan 03, 16:49 baro sensor is pretty useless on the fox ecus

what do you suspect will happen without it?

In very humid climate at sea level the car is very unhappy. I road trip the car and it makes it very difficult to drive when in this type of weather. I assume the baro would help with minor adjustments when the air density is dramatically different from where I live.



Jeremy

Just curious, has the OP tried this yet?

Any major difference on the butt-dyno?

This market sucks to own things that get less than 20mpg...



Jeremy

So oddly since installing the new battery in the car I have not had this issue...

I do still have sticking o2's though I think as I did not follow your advise about adding in the 4 wire o2's.

Debating on swapping out for a Holley Terminator as I'd like to use the quarterhorse on my other project car.

That's another topic I need to find some information regarding that I'll likely reach out to you (decipha) personally on.

The car is running pretty decent otherwise. I took it to Ocean City Maryland in May and it ran well, except for really hot days. Part of me really wants to add the baro sensor back in only because I do road trip the car and I would like to do drag week with it one of these years... But that all goes back to putting a Holley Terminator on it and building the 393.



Jeremy

Hello all,

So I'm not really sure what is going on with the car. After changing the PIP back in september I have driven the car a handful of times and randomly the CEL comes on annoyingly. I hooked up the laptop today with a fresh battery in the car and looks like the 02's aren't switching. I replaced the one on the passenger side as the other was only about a year old and same thing. I do not remember changing anything in the tune to cause this. The car runs decent still, ran several 14.0X last fall all with the CEL flashing at me, but the O2's hardly move and NEVER even come close to .4v. They hang out at damn near 0v, and HEGO1 jumps to .05V once in a while.

Here is a datalog of it idling if anyone wants to take a look- I'm taking it on a 6 hour drive in two weeks and really don't want to look at that damn light flashing the whole time.



Jeremy

PIP failed. I stole the one out of an extra 351 I had laying around and it fired right up.

I'm curious to see if this failure had anything to do with my previous drivability issues.



Jeremy

P.S. It still did a pretty decent 100 footer before that sensor let loose!

Just replaced the ECM and the battery in the QuarterHorse, same thing. Next is the distributor I guess.



Jeremy

So all of the above aside, I took the car to a show yesterday and played with the tune and got the miss out of it.

The car ran well, then I did a burnout in the burnout competition and drove about 15 miles, stopped to get gas, jumped back on the highway for 5 miles and the car started to spit and sputter, backfiring, no power. I pull over and it quits and it acts as if the timing is 180 out occasionally and acts like it doesn't even fire otherwise. I got it towed back to the house, replaced the TFI module, no resolution. I replaced the coil, no resolution. I have fuel pressure. It acts as if the distributor is still 180 out or won't do anything. I verified the distributor is rotating as well.

I attempted to pull fault codes out (CEL is always on while cranking when and it doesn't fire) but I was not successful in getting fault codes out with my old school beeper box OR my SnapOn Brick...

Is the OBD diag bypassed with the QuarterHorse? I disassembled the reman ECM that has been in there about a year and a few of the traces don't look the greatest.

I'm super frustrated at this thing because it has been great for a few years and now I'm just having problem after problem.



Jeremy

Also are the clipping settings still relevant for the MAF transfer? I thought I remembered reading somewhere before to leave the top IMAF setting at 3200 and make the reading match your next cell down.

I'm starting at square one with this tune it seems and I'm not happy about it. I'm learning all of this for the first time again it seems. Ugh.



Jeremy