EFIDynoTuning Forum

I guess I haven't updated this for a bit. The engine runs great, yea there is some drivability things that still need to be tuned and wiring clean up I need to do. But on course and under full throttle this engine is a ripper. It does feel stronger and responds better than with distributor setup. That could also be due to getting a better tune with Decipha than what was on their previously.

My mustang is not a street car. It is mainly used on an autocross course, but there is a lot of on and off throttle. Last year I got the car running in May. Took it to Autocross Week in June where it autocrossed all week along with driving in between each venue for a total of 500 miles. Overall last year with this ECU/ignition setup the car competed is 33 events and racked up 220+ runs.

The best part, for my local club's year end championship I won first in class and first overall, while my girlfriend one first in her class as well.

Yea there is a lot of suspension work done, but without a powerful and reliable engine that would not have been possible. So big thanks to Decipha for pioneering this swap and the tuning. Definitely way more affordable than going aftermarket ecu and gets mostly the same functionality.

Hey, sorry I haven't been on this site for a little while. Looking good. Yea I made the mistake of drawing up the coil brackets without all the pieces installed on the engine (ie alternator). Then on the driver side there is contact with no 8 coil and brake booster. Oh well it's good enough for a race car.

ATPCR wrote: ↑2023 Aug 18, 18:39 When you guys were using the coil connectors for the "Godzilla" coils, what kind of pliers did you use?
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/produ ... l5u918efd5
These are the first thing that I found when I did a search.
https://www.temu.com/mini-pliers-ym-too ... 11940.html

Mean crimpers for the pins? I didn't see anything at the temu link. This is what I bought that helped. I also already had a non-racheting open barrel crimper.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BJV ... =UTF8&th=1

Johnnyfast wrote: ↑2023 Oct 26, 02:41 Decipha
I believe the sensor was pioneered by GM, and duplicated by AEM and Haltec.
It seems to be a tube that gets spliced into the fuel line with a laser beam and
photo cell inside the darkness of the fuel changes the signal. Some are frequency based
So would need a digital? Input in the pcm.

Just looked up sensors, yea they are digital frequency output. I was assuming they were voltage analog output. Bummer.

I'll have to look if I'm using all the speed inputs.

Do you have a recommended ethanol sensor? Thinking this could be a cool winter project.

red5.0fogger wrote: ↑2023 Apr 27, 06:23 I was thinking, some solid core plug wires and non- resistor spark plugs can emit noise too.

Yes possible. I'm using LS plug wires that state low noise emission and spark plugs with resistors.

The issue is completely fixed now by adding the second capacitor and a good quality USB cable with Ferrite beads

Can you explain the tach pin 48, is it an input or output? Still trying to figure out how to get the in dash tachometer to work.

dleach1407 wrote: ↑2023 May 11, 22:00

dleach1407 wrote: ↑2023 May 07, 00:46 Can I also get some clarification on the cam sensor? It appears the ecu pinout has a cam+ but no cam-. Do I just use the signal return for the cam sensor? Looking at the stock harness I believe that's how it's wired but I want to make sure that's the proper way to wire it.

Bump.. Still need verification on this

Yes use signal return for cam position

Cam position sensor:
Pin 1 -> Signal Return EECV pin 91
Pin 2 -> CAM EECV pin 85

dleach1407 wrote: ↑2023 May 01, 20:15 Thanks @rinnerauto. I'm going to try and get the custom bracket close but I'm sure it will be off so I wanted to make sure there was a way to dial it in if its off. On a side note, I mocked up my blower kit today and it looks like it will clear everything so I'm now gonna throw a blower on it too.

Not to highjack but what type of blower? Getting rid of the distributor is begging for a screw type supercharger on top.

With the engine at TDC you can mount the pickup 50deg from the missing tooth, or 5 teeth.

I'm sure you have already seen this: https://wiki.autosportlabs.com/Ford_EDI ... nformation

There is a way to lock it at 10deg, I don't know how, but decipha has mine at 10deg at idle in the startup tune to verify timing.