EFIDynoTuning Forum

AcesArneson wrote: ↑2022 Jun 25, 16:10 Thanks for the reply but I could not open it, said it was not found. Any chance you can attach it another way?

https://64bittuning.fwscart.com/Ford_Sm ... 26462.aspx

The way you have that mounted, the hubcentric ring is not used so the adapter is not being positively centered which means the pulley won't stay centered. The wheel is supposed to go between the adapter and pulley. You need to shorten the front of the adapter .120 which is the thickness of the wheel. You still need the lip that centers pulley and the wheel. For sn95, that won't work because the sn95 pulley of not flat on the back.

There really is no way to put it on the back side. The 64bit tuning unit is 6.75 inches. Even putting it on the front, its going to be a tight fit and I am not even positive it will fit. Its going to be extremely close to the waterpump inlet. Im planning on using a ppd balancer and having the adapter turned down so it will fit right against the stock pulley. Since the 94/95 pulley isnt flat on the back side, im going to have to make an adapter that allows me to put the wheel back more like 3/8 of an inch and then have a 1/4 spacer in front of the wheel that allows the pulley to be mounted without hitting the 36-1. Pro-M makes a 6.5 inch 36-1 wheel but I dont know if they sell just the wheel. I think you have to buy their whole kit and its 500$ and its not even a VR sensor so you will still have to adapt a VR sensor to it. I emailed them today to find out if they sell just the wheel.

This is what I'm using

https://64bittuning.fwscart.com/index.a ... 41720Page=

Is 1035 in gfux the equivalent to 1052 in cbaza?

wwhite wrote: ↑2022 Jun 09, 14:08 I set up a bench test, connected power & grounds, ignition, fuel pump to a relay, then connected the self-test wires and a light to the MIL.
Basically made something like this:
https://youtu.be/d5n_wKmueKM

That's a good idea.

Alright.... I finally figured out a method to get it dialed in, which is different than what was recommended. Instead of trying to stab the throttle and interpolate the values, I found a much easier way of dialing it in. I still have it locked in closed loop, still have dfso disabled ect. Here is what I did and it made huge differences.

When shifting, I would look at the load it was cruising at and then watch AFR when I let off the throttle. I would determine how far the fuel was off and then apply that change to the load/temp value in 1321. When cruising around 40% load and I shifted, I would see it drop to around .85 or so lambda so I would add 15% to the correct cell. After adjusting from 140 to 210 I applied the changes and drove it. Now when I shift I am seeing a small AFR change instead of a huge swing. Its still going a touch rich (.95 lambda) on decel so I have a little adjustment to perform but that method seems to be working better for me than the stab it method.

I think once I get tipout staying right around 1 lambda from cold to warm, then I can swing 312QD around to add or remove fuel on tip in to keep it a hair rich.

Try searching for Manifold fill, manifold volume or VE correction. 1052 in CBAZA has that in the description as well, maybe he didnt put the actual function number in the description.

I plan on shortening a stock 94/95 balancer on the front to fit between the balancer and pulley. It looks like it should fit but i won't know until i get the balancer cut down. I may need to notch the pump in order for it to fit.

I replace caps but i don't have a way of testing your computer since i don't have a fox body any more. It would be no different than if you took it to an electronics shop since they won't have a way of testing it either.